13 Autumn Winter 2016-17 Makeup Trends

1. Red Lips
 You can never go wrong with a classic red lip, so buying a red lipstick will always be a safe investment. Joseph went for tomato red lips with makeup artist Lynsey Alexander describing the look as "Modern and fresh, with a nod to the Eighties punk lip." At Pringle, models wore Lord & Berry's matte red lip crayon in Vertige.  At Proenza Schouler slicked down masculine/androgynous hair was balanced by a feminine red lip.

Left: Schouler Indigital- Centre Joseph Imaxtree Right Pringle

2. Rouge Noir and Gothic 
In the autumn and winter seasons you can get away with wearing darker colours and this season the lady is a Vamp. Dark red, almost black lips in matte, satin or gloss finishes were everywhere. Over at Mary Katrantzou MAC make up artists went for a velvet 'stamped on' heart shaped lips. They used MAC lip pencil in Burgundy with a coat of MAC's Retro Matte Liquid lipcolour in Dance with Me on top. At Gareth Pugh, models faces were distorted by an elastic band under the cheekbones which gave the face a strange, fuller look. The dark lacquered pouts were created by using MAC's lip pencil in Burgundy and Lip Mix in Black Crimson and Orange mixed together. Louis Vuitton and Sibling, also sported glossy lips while Creature of the wind paired dark lips with Kardashian inspired corn rows.

Left: Louis Vuitton Getty Images Centre Mary Katrantzou Getty Images Right Creature of The Wind. Getty/Nars 

Left Sibling Imaxtree Centre Bottega Veneta Getty Images Right: Gareth Pugh Getty Images

 At Dior lips were also lacquered, with make up artist Peter Phillips first outlining the lips with Dior Contour Lipliner in Poison, filling them in with black eyeliner and applying Rouge Dior lipstick in Poison 962. He then used a kleenex to blot the lips, reapplied the lipstick and added Dior Addict Ultra Gloss Bulle for a mirror finish.  Even pale girls can pull off the look, just look at Rodarte. Celebrated makeup artist James Kaliardos wanted to create a "beautifully romantic (look) with a contrast of deep colour." He applied Nars Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Train Bleu and Nars Audacious Lipstick in Liv. Although the lips look black at Nicholas K, makeup artists used Stila's All Day Liquid Lipstick in Chianti which is actually a dark purple.

Left: Nicolas K Getty Images Centre:  Dior Getty Images Right: Rodarte Nars

3. Illuminated Skin

At Mcqueen makeup artist Lucia Peroni used a rose gold highlighter RMS Master Mixer. Eye makeup was kept smudgy to keep the look contemporary. Over at Valentino legendary makeup artist Pat McGrath applied iridescent powder across the cheekbones, eyelids and cupids bow. Makeup artists at Alexander Wang used Nars Sheer Glow Foundation for a fresh faced, radiant glow.

Left: Alexander McQueen Getty Images Centre Valentino Indigital Right Alexander Wang Nars

4. Full Brows
To achieve the 'ethereal tough girl' at Rodarte, brows were brushed up and then darkened with black mascara. James Kaliardos explained that it was important "to only get it on the hairs, not the skin; it thickens the brow and shapes it and gives a strength that's important." At Topshop brows were kept natural and brushed up with Topshop Sculpting Brow Gel. At Ralph Lauren brows were kept thick and natural looking.

Left: Rodarte Nars Centre Ralph Lauren Imaxtree Right: Topshop Unique Topshop Unique

5. Flushed Cheeks
The concept behind the look at Marchesa was as if the model had come to life from an 1800's John Singer portrait. 'A retouched one' makeup artist Bobbi Brown added. She used Bobbi Brown Retouching powder in Rose and Pink to give a watered down pink blush and a luminous finish to the skin. The look at Prabal Gurung was inspired by Lord Byron's poem 'She Walks In Beauty.' Blush was used to achieve a wild, romantic windswept appearance. Rosy cheeks were also spotted at Tanya Taylor.

Left: Tanya Taylor Nars Centre: Marchesa Isidore Montag Right: Pabal Gurung Isidore Montag

6. Lashes
Attention seeking lashes still maintained their popularity on the catwalks. At Jason Wu, makeup artist Yadim gave models clumpy lashes using Maybelline The Colossal Spider Effect Mascara paired with glossy eye lids. He said to skip the roots of the lashes and instead "swish the tip of the wand back and forth across the ends so it bunches the lashes together into four or five really thick ones then leaves a bunch of long separated ones. It gives them a punk rock edge." Volumising mascara as well as double sets of false lashes were applied at Anna Sui. Makeup artists at Carven layered waterproof mascara because it is thicker and stiffer, on both upper and lower lashes to get the thick spidery look.

Left: Jason Wu Moroccan Oil Centre Anna Sui Imaxtree Right Carven Imaxtree

 7. Statement Liner
At Kenzo, Lynsey Alexander described the concept as "naughty Japanese schoolgirls meets Sailor moon." Graphic lines were drawn with MAC Chromaline Liner in Black Black. Then MAC Superslick Liquid Eye Liner in On the Hunt was painted on top. Finally MAC 3D Glitter in Silver was added to the inner corners of the eyes to give a futuristic feel. Ryan Lo opted for 60's inspired lashes and graphic double liner. Tom Pecheux decribed the look at Altuzarra as “Street, graphic, sculptural Picasso." Mac's Fluidline pen in Retro Black was used on the eyes and lips were kept minimal with lip conditioner.

Left Kenzo Getty Images Centre Altuzarra Indigital Right Rylan Lo Getty Images

8. Graphic Eyes
Topshop Beauty Consultant Hannah Murray fused '60s and punk. Graphic eye flicks were first drawn on with Topshop Black Kohl in Coal and over-lined with Topshop Liquid Liner in Black Cab for the 60's wet look. Kohl was applied under the lower lashes for an edgy, all night partying look topped with Topshop Party Proof Mascara. At Oscar De La Renta makeup artist Dianne Kendal created a graphic eye by drawing a rectangular shape from the centre of the eye towards the outer corners. Then she went upwards into a point like a cat eye and then along the crease of the eyelid. She used MAC Powerpoint eye pencil in Engraved, then layered cream shadow and black shadow to set it. For the lips concealer was with mixed with lipstick for a matte, neutral finish. Eye makeup at Giamba wasn't as precise for a rock and roll vibe.

Left Topshop Unique Getty Images Centre: Giamba Indigital Right: Oscar De La Renta Indigital

9. Glitter 

Eyelids with just a wash of glitter were seen at Jenny Packham using Bobbi Brown Sequin Eye Shadow.  Generously applied yellow gold glitter was spotted at John Richmond. For Emanuel Ungaro, makeup artist Val Garland created a "rock revolutionary party girl in green" inspired by the '70s.  She applied MAC Eye Shadow Pro Palette in Bottle Green onto lids. Then using MAC's Mixing Medium as glue she applied MAC Glitter in 3D Brass Gold on the top eyelids and MAC Creme Liner in Black under the eyes.

Left: John Richmond Imaxtree Centre: Jenny Packham Rex Features Right Emanuel Ungaro Getty Images

Glitter made an unusual appearance at Burberry where Burberry's Shimmer Dust showered from the outer eyes onto the cheek. Val Garland's take on Giambattista Valli's triumphant celebration of women was that  "every woman should have a silver lining in her life." She took this literally with bold silver glitter liner drawn underneath the brow. MAC's Silver Pigment was added to MAC's Mixing Medium to create the silver liner. Once that set more mixing meduim went on top to act as glue for MAC's 3D Silver Glitter. At Tommy Hilfiger, Val Garland applied gold glitter over a taupe cream eye shadow.

Left: Giambattista Valli Indigital Centre Burberry Indigital Right Tommy Hilfiger Getty Images

10. Peach Eye Shadow
Pastel peach was a surprising choice for the autumn-winter shows since pastels are usually associated with spring and summer. At Prabal Gurung lids were peachy and the skin had a peachy glow to it as well. For BCBG Val Garland used Jay manuel Ultimate lipgloss in Desire, a peach lipgloss over a cream eye shadow to achieve a molton effect. She then lined eyes with Jay Manuel Creme liner in Captive on lighter skin tones and in Outlaw for darker skin tones. Peach was seen on both eyes and lips at Rochas.

Left: Rochas Imaxtree Centre: BCBG Imaxtree Right:Prabal Gurung Imaxtree

11. Smoky eyes
At Alberta Ferretti, makeup artist Diane Kendall was inspired by  'girls in the morning after a night out' and she made this 'morning after look' much more sexy than in real life! She used MAC Kohl Power eye pencil in Feline on the lash lines layered with Mac's Mixing Medium Shine for this lived in look. For Chloe, make up artist Aaron De May teamed the "worn in look" with "a slight toughness." He used MAC Modern Twist Kajal Liner in Squid along the waterline, dragging it down under the eyes before wiping the colour away with a cotton bud dipped in gloss. Sixties icon Talitha Getty inspired the look at Lhuillier. The look represented the girl that is "so cool the only thing she does is her eyeliner." This "little black eye" is a vinyl finish created by layering a cream liner MAC Creme Liner in Black then a gel liner MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack then a clear lip gloss and rough mascara only on the bottom lashes. MAC Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour in Divine and Mademoiselle were worn the lips.

Left: Alberta Ferretti Imaxtree Centre: Chloe Imaxtree Right Monique Lhuillier Imaxtree

Over at Vin & Omi makeup artists Sam Chapman and Nicola Haste (Pixiwoo) used Collection's Eyebrow Kit as eye shadow for their smoky look. For Moschino, Tom Pecheux went for a "sexy 90's" smoky eye. In contrast, the look he created for Ellie Saab was more rock and roll. He applied MAC Taupe Blush on the lid taking it all the way up to the brow and under the lower lashes creating an large oval shape. He then drew a darkened an almond shape inside using MAC Fluidline gel liner in Backtrack. Finally MAC Pigment in Dark Soul was dabbed on top of the gel liner. Pechaux explained that "It was important the eyes look big and to feel like there's a dark circle inside the taupe oval, otherwise it becomes a makeup commercial in the '90's."

Left: Vin & Omi Danny Collins Centre: Ellie Saab Getty Images Right: Moschino Imaxtree

12. Textured eyes 
For Chanel Tom Pecheux was influenced by the famous Chanel quilted bags and used Chanel Soft Touch eye shadow in Midnight to produce a quilted effect to match the quilted jacket worn by the models. Thick mascara and pink lips completed this look. At Vaccarello, Pecheux was inspired by the earrings from the collection because they had "the shape of a cat's eye" and re-purposed them. He filled in the lids with L'oreal Paris Infalliable Gel Lacquer Liner and set it with L'oreal Paris Colour Riche Eye Shadow in Noir C'est Noir. He then glued the deconstructed earrings onto the outer eyes with spirit gum.To bring the look together he traced cream liner along the bottom edge of the earring. At Holly Fulton eyelids were given a broken glass effect. To achieve this look makeup artist Sam Bryant wet eyes with MAC's Mixing Medium, added adhesive in the crease and placed a sheet of silver metal leaf on top using a buffing brush to break it up in random pieces for the 'shards of glass'.

13. Colourful Eyes

Jeremy Scott's makeup artist Kubuki described his look as "pin up girls with a pop twist." Crystal studded silver stars were placed under the right eye and MAC Acrylic Paint in High Def Cyan was drawn over the arch of the eyelids. MAC's lipstick in Candy Yum Yum completed the look.
At Fendi, inspired by the concept of "posh girl goes to Burning Man," makeup artist Peter Philips used purple, green, yellow, blue and pink around the eyes. Mugler showcased fiery colours in his collection so Clarins International Artistic Director Eric Antoniotti mixed an orange Clarin's eye shadow with Blue Orchard oil on the back of his hand. He then used his fingers to apply this to the eyelid for a fuss free, bold look.

                                Which is your favourite look? Let me know in the comments.

Left: Jeremy Scott Imaxtree Centre: Mugler Getty Images Right Fendi Getty Images