Friday 29 September 2017

15 Autumn /Winter 2017 Makeup Trends


Unusually for the Autumn/ Winter season the makeup worn on the catwalks featured a lot of brightly coloured eye makeup, pastels and pink which I tend to associate with spring and summer. The nineties influence was still evident at Jill Stuart and at Valentino with their grunge makeup. The hangovers from the spring/summer 2017 fashion shows were glossy eyes and burgundy eye makeup. I'm not complaining as I love them both. I think Urban Decay dropping their Naked Heat palette this year was a smart move considering 2017 seems to be the year of  burgundy and copper eyes. Metallic makeup is trending and I can't wait to try Balmain's and Brandon Maxwell's metallic rock eyes. Also the sixties influence was felt across the shows with Twiggy doll-like eyelashes. Scroll down to see this seasons gorgeous make up! (Just a warning this post is quite photo heavy.)

1. METALLIC EYES
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The edgy, metallic look for Balmain was created with MAC's Eye Shadow in Carbon,  MAC Pro Longwear Fluidline in Blacktrack and Kohl Power Eye Pencil in Feline to create the smokey eye. Then Mac's Pigment in Platinum was dabbed across the lower lash line and MAC's Copper Sparkle Pigment was added to the top lid. Models were impeccably contoured with MAC's Sculpting Powder in Definitive and wore gold lips.

At Brandon Maxwell, makeup artist Tom Percheux used MAC's Kohl Power eye pencil in Feline blending the liner from the upper lash line to the crease. This was set with MAC's eye shadow in Carbon before applying MAC pigment in copper sparkle. Then MAC Haute and Naughty Mascara  completed the look. The lips were painted with soft colours from the MAC Trend Forecast Fall 2017 palette.

Alberta Ferreti went for a "Venice at Night" look. They used MAC Paint Stick in Basic Red pressed in the centre of the eye lid over MAC's eyeshadow in Carbon. Then MAC's Kohl Power Pencil in Feline was applied to finish the smoky eye. A little bit of gold face powder brightened the inner corners of the eyes. Finally lips were muted with MAC Lip Erase In Dim.



Metallic Eye shadows were spotted across the fashion shows in a variety of shades.  At La Perla the burgundy eye was achieved by layering a lip liner, a lipstick in the same shade as well as two eye shadows: the plum shade from Maybellines 24K Nudes Shadow Palette and Maybelline's Expert Wear Eye Shadows in Fierce Fuchsia. At Central Saint Martins silver eye shadow was paired with a pastel purple brow which looked odd yet beautiful. At Alexis Mabille MAC's Gold Pigment was mixed with MAC's Mixing Medium Eyeliner and painted on with visible brushstrokes, followed by MAC's Haute and Naughty Lash Mascara. Nails were then painted gold to match.

2. EYES THAT ROCK
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Models at Marni had heavily kohl rimmed eyes making them look every inch a rock chick. At Yamamoto make up artist Pat Mcgrath painted one eye red and the other had a black diagonal stripe across the lid and the cheek and the lips were painted black. To create the rock inspired sixties cat eyes seen at Chloe, makeup artist Aaron De Ray used MAC's Kohl Power Eye Pencil in Feline smudged across the upper and lower lids. Then  MAC Pro Long wear Fluidline in Blacktrack was used to create the flicks while MAC's Lipglass in Clear was dabbed on the eyelids for shine.

3. THE GRUNGE LOOK
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For Valentino, Pat McGrath chose to draw a reverse cat eye by lining only the lower lid in a burgundy eye pencil. Lips were then painted burgundy to match. At Osman models either had glossy bright red lips or messy black glossy eyes. While at Jill Stuart half the models were fresh faced the other half were given a grunge makeup look with brown glossy eyes, full brows and bare lips.

4. GOTHIC

At Christian Siriano rivers of copper glitter flowed from the models' eyes for this "Victorian Techno Goth Walking in The Valley of Fire " look. Over at Phillip Plein, one of the looks was 'slick goth' where both the eyes and lips were given a glossy treatment. For this look makeup artist Yazim used  Maybelline 24K Nude Eyes palette, Maybelline Colossal Big Shot Mascara and Maybelline Color Sensational Vivid Hot  Lacquers. While at Fenty Puma some of the models wore dark purple-black lips and lots of eyeliner.

5. PASTEL
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At Derek Lam pastels were used for a winter like frost. To copy this look use Maybelline's Expert Wear Eye Shadow in Purple Daze, NY Silver and Teal the Deal. Golan and Stella Jean went for a baby pastel blue on the eye lids. Over at Mary Katrantzou models wore a wash of lilac purple eye shadow with MAC Strobe Cream in Pinklite and MAC's Mineralize Skinfinish. As you can see above the lilac-purple looked amazing on deeper skin tones.

6. PINK
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At Mark Fast, blusher was applied in an 'upside down' technique: applying blusher from the temple down to the top of the cheekbone and blending it in the hairline. Makeup artist Lisa Potter Dixon used Benefit's Majorette Cream Blush and then Benefit's Galifornia Pink Blusher on top. Using a wet brush with Benefit's Galifornia blusher she lined the the upper eyelid and then applied  Benefit's Mascara in Beyond Blue.  Benefit's Double Lip was applied to the lips. Pink lips were also seen at Andrew G N drawn in an 1920's cupid bow shape while models at Anrealage wore satin pink eye shadow and pale pink lips.

7. 60's LASHES

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 At Chanel, the sixties space age look was created with Chanel's Ombre Première eye shadow in Titane then Chanel's Calligraphie De Chanel Longwear Intense Cream Liner was used to draw the floating line above the crease. Sixties doll like lashes were created with Le Volume De Chanel Mascara in Black and then individual false lashes were applied in small clusters along the bottom lash line.  Then Le Rouge Crayon De Couleur in Rose Violine gave a soft pink colour to the lips. Over at Jeremy Scott the makeup artist used MAC's 7 false eyelashes. These extra long strip lashes were cut into individual lashes and glued to the lower lash line. Afterwards a coating of MAC's Haute and Naughty Black Mascara was applied. Then the makeup artist drew on a golden tear inspired by the tears of the Virgin Mary.  To add a rosy blush MAC's Kabuki Magic Today We Live Powder Blush Duo was used. Over at Tadashi Shoji the makeup artist drew fake lower lashes with black eye liner and used glitter in between them for a sixties Twiggy look. 

8. The NATURAL DEWY LOOK

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At Teatum Jones skin was fresh and dewy. Lord and Berry's blush and matte lipstick pencil gave a natural, minimal makeup look. Over at JW  Anderson make up artist Mark Carrasquillo went for a "squeaky clean" no makeup look. He liberally applied NARS Aqua Gel Luminous Moisturizer followed by NARS Soft Matte Concealer. While at Emilia Wickstead Sisley's Sisleya L'Intergral Anti Age cream was applied to models faces and then Sisley Le Teint Foundation to even out complexions. On the cheeks, Sisley's Phyto Blush Eclat added colour. On the eyes were Sisley Ombre Glow and the brows were filled with Sisley Phyto-Sourcils Perfect Brow Pencil.

9. STRONG BROWS

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There was also a trend for thick, feathery, brushed up brows seen at Narciso Rodriguez and Erin Featherston. At  Uma Wang the look was more androgynous.

10.  GLAMOROUS WINGED EYELINER

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I love Dolce and Gabbana's aesthetic. For their look Dolce and Gabbana's Glam Liner in Black Intense was used to create the perfect cat eye as well as Dolce and Gabbana Eye Shadow Quad in Smoky 105. All models wore Dolce and Gabbana's Perfect Luminous Liquid Foundation. Lips were painted with Dolce Matte and Classic Cream Lipsticks in reds, pinks and nude shades on different models. The look from PPQ combined two trends- the sixties eyes paired with nighties lips. Makeup artist Polly Osmond used Lord and Berry's Seta eyeshadow in Ranja, Charcoal and Porcelain. Lips were lined with Lord and Berry's lip liner in Blush and then filled in with a paler contrasting lipstick. Neat feline flicks were also seen at Philosophy with a trace of lilac on the lower lid.

11. GRAPHIC EYES
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Bold, graphic cat eyes also stole the show. At Versace, Pat McGrath used a shadow stick from her Dark Star #006 set that somehow manages to look matte and yet wet. At YSL, Tom Pecheux took the unprecedented step of dipping a finger in YSL's Shock Mascara and then smeared it across the lid in a messy, graphic cat eye. At Prabal Gurung face makeup was kept to a minimum to ensure the focus was on the bright graphic eyes. Models wore either a orange blue, or green graphic eye. The look was created with MAC's Chromacake in Cyan, Genuine Orange, Marine Ultra, Landscape Dream and True Chartreuse.

12.  QUIRKY  LINER

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At Isa Afran, make up artist Andrew Gallimore used liner to create an autumn appropriate  "skeleton leaf" around models' eyes. He also used NARS Bali Matte Eye Shadow and NARS Soft Matte Concealer. The makeup at Chalayan was inspired by both Japan and the 80's to create a "weird club kid geisha." Make up artist Thomas de Kluyver used MAC's lip pencil in Cherry around the eyes as well as the lips and further defined the eyes using MAC's Pro long wear eyeliner in Definedly BlackAt Mugler a sharp thin angular line was drawn above the crease.


                                                                           11) BRIGHT EYE MAKE UP

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Makeup at Byblos saw bright combinations of blue and yellow eye makeup that somehow reminds me of a bird of paradise. Maison Margiela stole the show with bright graphic eyes in rainbow colours on the lids and bleached orange brows. Bright eyes at Vivienne Westwood came courtesy of MAC's Chromographic pencil in Hi Def Cyan.

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Be it Sunset eyes or autumn leaves, Carmen Marc Valvo's bright makeup looked stunning.  Chanel also joined in with their 'punk rainbow' eye shadow that contrasted against the charcoal coloured clothing collection. At House of Holland, olive green, orange and mauve glitter were dubbed across the eyes for a colourful look. This was topped with The Body Shop Lash Hero Fibre Extension Mascara in blue Texas Topaz. To balance the look and keep the focus on the eyes lips were toned down along with a bare face.

12.  BANANA EYE MAKE UP

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At Oscar De La Renta Tom Pecheaux used MAC's Chromacakes for this two tone 'banana' eye, specifically MAC's Chromagraphic Pencil in Process Magenta was used on all the models and then each models' eyelids were then painted either Cyan, Rich Purple or Genuine Orange. The look was said to be inspired by "happiness." The stripy eye at Richard Malone was created with MAC's Chromaline Liners in Pure White, Genuine Orange and their Blue Work It Out Sky is the Limit Mascara which was used as a liner with MAC's 209 Eyeliner brush. Lips were given a bit of gloss and MAC's Prep and Prime Essential Oil Slick was used on the T-Zone for a dewy look. Crisp turquoise and white  'banana eyes' were also seen Emilio De La Morena.


13.  BERRY LIPS
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At La Perla lips were dark with Maybelline's Color Sensational Loaded Bolds Lipstick in Midnight Merlot with the centre wiped away to give the lips a little 'brightness.' Giambattista Valli went for a "natural, hot, sexy, sweaty look." To create this, models had wet look hair and skin was prepped with MAC's Mineralized Charged Water Face and Body Lotion.  MAC's Mixing Medium in Shine and MAC's Lipglass in Clear were applied to the brows "to mimic the natural shine and sweat to the skin." For the bright glossy lips  MAC's lip pencil in Burgundy was mixed with a combination of MAC's Retro Lip Colours in Carnivorous, Dance With Me and High Drama. The dark glossy stain was deliberately applied patchily and imperfectly. Over at Marc Jacobs lips were coated with Marc Jacobs Beauty Le Marc Lip Creme Lipstick in Blackquer and Le Marc Lip Creme Lipstick in Blow. Marc Jacob's Fineliner Ultra Skinny Gel Eye Crayon Eyeliner in Blackquer gave eyes definition.

14.  THE TRADITIONAL SMOKY EYE
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Elie Saab went for a gorgeous dark grey smoky eye with metallic glitter along the inner corners of the eyes. To recreate this look smudge MAC's Pro Fluid Line in Blacktrack along upper and lower lash lines. Apply MAC's Kohl Power Eye Pencil in Feline over the eye lid and brush MAC's Glitter in 3D Silver on top of the inner eye and cheek bones. Armani also went for a grey smoky eye with a hint of pink lipstick. While a  black and silver smoky eye paired with pink lips was also spotted at PPQ.


15. SMOKY EYES WITH A DIFFERENCE

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Antonio Marras gave us a pastel smoky eye with a difference with colour concentrated on one eye only. To achieve this look you need to mix MAC's Lipmix in cyan and white and then apply to the upper eyelid and over the eyebrow for a smoky finish. Both eyes were rimmed with MAC Kohl Power Pencil in Feline and MAC eyeshadow in Carbon. Talbot Runhof had a lilac smoky eye with very subtle dash of orange liner. Over at Prada models wore lots of kohl liner with a slap dash application and with periwinkle blue pastel on the lids. 

Which is your favourite look? Which look are you excited to try out? 
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