Friday 11 June 2021

9 Ingredients to Avoid in DIY Skincare Hacks And & what To Use Instead


There are so many D.I.Y skincare recipes floating around pintrest and the web in general and while they may look like they're saving you money, some of the ingredients in the recipes can actually damage the skin. I recommend checking out eMediHealth under the skin and beauty tab because their recipes are written by dermatologists and they list any potential ingredients that could irritate or cause a reaction for certain people. Additionally try patch testing on your hand or behind the ear for 48 hours before you apply it to your face. Keep reading to learn about which ingredients to avoid. 

1. The biggest misconception is to use lemon juice on the skin. Please don't use lemon anywhere on the face or body! When life gives you lemons make lemonade. Do not make a lemon DIY toner, face and body exfoliator or as a treatment to lighten the skin. Dermatologists are struggling to get the message heard that applying lemons to the skin is actually harmful. Lemon is highly acidic at pH 2 and can change the pH balance of your acid mantle (skin barrier) causing skin irritation and hyper pigmentation. Citrus oils are photo-toxic meaning that when you go outside in the sun, the lemon will irritate the skin and make it hyper sensitive to the sun. This can lead to a chemical burn which may cause permanent damage and excruciating pain. Additionally the acid content varies from lemon to lemon so you never know precisely how much acid you're using. While the first time using lemon juice might be OK, the next time could cause serious skin problems. 

2. Don't use bicarbonate of soda/ baking soda. Baking soda often appears in DIY recipes for face and body scrubs to exfoliate the skin or to help fight acne. Baking soda is not your friend. It is an alkali which will change the pH of the skin and cause deterioration of  the top layer of skin so that bacteria will seep in, causing reactive red skin and infections.  

What you should use instead of lemons or baking soda....
If you are looking for an exfoliating treatment try an AHA toner (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) with a pH between 3 and 4, this will be low enough to exfoliate without the dangers of using baking soda.  I have not stepped into the world of AHAs due to my sensitive skin, but I've recently read about the The Inky Lists PHA Toner. PHAs are similar to AHAs but have larger molecules and are less sensitising making it a better choice for more sensitive skin. The Independent Newspaper has a useful article here  they awarded Oskia Liquid Mask aid micro peel as it's best buy. It contains lactic acid which isn't as harsh as glycolic acid and works overnight. They also liked GOOP's G.tox malachite+ AHA pore refining tonic.  Paula's Choice pH skincare guide  recommends Resist Anti Aging 5% AHA Exfoliant and Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Lotion Exfoliant. Don't forget to wear at least SPF 30 immediately afterwards and a week after using AHAs.
The Inky List PHA Paula's choice AHA Oskia LIQUID mask

3. Don't use Walnut shells to exfoliate your skin because they are too abrasive. 
The pieces are harsh and can create micro cuts/ injuries to your skin and make your skin prone to sensitivity. It can decrease the skins effectiveness in protecting against environment pollutants. 

What You should use instead
If you are looking for a physical exfoliator for your face use oats or chickpeas because they both have a neutral pH and once ground/milled are gentle on the skin. You need oats that are unflavoured, raw and in a dry state and grind them into a fine powder using a blender or a pestle and mortar. Do the same for chickpeas (garbanzo beans) for roughly 2 minutes until fine and the consistency of flour. Chickpeas have the added bonus of being rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants are substances that help protect the skin's surface from damage caused by free radicals. Free radicals are molecules in the environment such as pollution, cigarette smoke and UV rays that damage your skin by clinging to your collagen and weakening elasticity and so aging the skin. 

You can also use poppy seeds or beads made of hardened oil like jojoba. Another alternative is to use a flannel/washcloth on wet skin.  

oats chickpeas jojoba beads



4. Don't use apple cider vinegar (ACV). It's been touted as a treatment for acne, fading blemish scars and age spots and for removing skin tags. However it does sting and long term undiluted ACV can burn the skin. Any acne sores will suffer burns or major irritation. If you get it in your eyes, you could experience inflammation or even a cornea burn. 

5. Don't put toothpaste on spots to make them go away, I tried this when I was a teenager and the toothpaste burnt my skin. Mint is an irritant and according to dermatologist Ranella Hirsch toothpaste can actually increase melanin production meaning it can create brown spots and discoloration in the areas where it was applied. 

What You should use instead of apple cider vinegar or toothpaste....
Use DILUTED  tea tree oil instead. According to WikiHow mix 2-3 drops of tea tree oil with 2 teaspoons of aloe vera gel or water (boiled first and then use cooled.) You can also use carrier oils such as olive oil with the tea tree oil, this may appear counterintuitive but you don't want the area of skin around the spot to become dry.  Apply using a cotton swab or fingers. Beware of applying it neat because can be very irritating.  You can buy Tisserand Organic Tea Tree oil or Neals Yard here.  Another option is to use Salicylic acid such as Paula's Choice BHA, benzoyl  peroxide or Corsx pimple master patches. 
tea tree oil paula's choice bha corsx pimple patch


6. Do not use Preparation H on your face. Preparation H is a cream to treat haemorrhoids. It's also used in beauty pageants, on the red carpet and on fashion runaways by makeup artists to reduce puffy eyes. However the effect is temporary and not without risk. Preparation H contains Phenylephrine which works by constricting blood vessels. Long term use may make it ineffective and can lead to rebound swelling. Preparation H also contains 1%  hydrocortisol, a topical steroid that can thin the skin on an already thin, delicate under eye area. It can also cause steroid acne and enlarged blood vessels, making your eyes look worse over time. Additionally it can cause allergies including eczema and if you accidentally get Preparation H in your eye it can do some serious damage. 

What you should use instead
If you're going for the DIY approach cold teabags are a safer choice to reduce any swelling but the effect is also temporary. If you want to reduce dark under eye circles then use an eye cream or solution with caffeine (such as The Ordinary hereThe Inky List here, Garden of Wisdom here)  or creams with “firming” or “lifting” properties that can tighten the skin around the eyes. You can also use gel packs or an anti-histamine to reduce puffy eyes.

TEA BAGS ON EYES


7. Egg whites are common ingredients for 'tightening up' the skin. However their effects cease once you've rinsed the mask off but more importantly raw egg can be contaminated with Salmonella.  Therefore it is not a good idea to have uncooked egg so close to your mouth. There is also a risk of contracting a gastrointestinal tract infection or a localized skin infections especially if you already have blemishes that are trying to heal.  Additionally raw egg is a contaminant which hang around on surfaces for several hours, making your bathroom a health hazard. If you are allergic to eating eggs do not even attempt to put this on your skin. Egg whites are also mentioned in DIY nose pore strips to remove blackheads and whiteheads. However just like the Biore nose strips when you pull them off they can damage the skin. 

What you should use instead
If you want to tighten and minimise pores then try Tony Moly's Egg pore tightening cooling pack. This mask has bentonite and kaolin clay as well as egg shell powder to deep clean and minimise the appearance of pores. To remove blackheads I recommend this technique Make Up Savvy to decrease blackheads and shrink pores.




8. The “cinna-mask”  became a trend after beauty blogger Enjoy Phoenix praised cinnamon for purifying the skin. While Enjoy Phonenix was ok, some people who tried the mask experienced burns. Cinnamon is also a common ingredient in DIY lip plumping recipes as it irritates the skin making it swell and tingle like a lot of lip plumping lip glosses. However being allergic to cinnamon is actually very common but even if you're not allergic your skin may still be hypersensitive to it.

9. Cayenne Pepper is often used in skin recipes for 'glowing skin.' There is actually good evidence for this since cayenne pepper contains capsaicin which can soothe itching and dull skin.  It may also have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. However this does not mean that it's safe to use in DIY recipes as too much cayenne pepper can cause irritation and burning. Applying them to the lips as a 'plumping' treatment can cause serious irritation and burns. 

What you should use instead of cinnamon or cayenne pepper
If you are after something to purify your skin then try masks with kaolin and benonite clay. Make sure you buy cosmetic clay or pharmaceutical clay from a health or cosmetic store. Don't get it from an art supply shop. An alternative to cinnamon is honey it is antimicrobial, heals minor wounds and doesn't irritate the skin. However if you are allergic to honey, pollen or bees avoid applying honey on the skin. For people without known allergies, it is still important to test a small part of the skin before applying it to larger areas of the body. Make sure all traces are removed before bed as it can trap dirt and leave the skin sticky. 

If  you are after plump lips then try Rodials Dragon's Blood Lip mask it contains sodium hyuronate and 'dragon blood' or tree resin extract to moisturise and plump the the skin.   

If you are after 'glowing skin' then you should exfoliate the skin, this removes dead skin cells on the surface of the skin so that your skin looks smoother and reflect light. You can do this with a physical exfoliator (see number 3 above) or chemical toners (see number 2 above.) Use a good hydrating moisturiser because when skin is moisturised it reflects light, making the skin look glowy. You can also add Vitamin C serum to your routine which will brighten skin, lighten dark areas, boost collagen, heal skin and contains antioxidants to prevent damage to cells caused by free radicals. There are different types of vitamin C and they vary in strength, L-ascorbic Acid is the most effective but can be irritating while Ascorbyl palmitate is supposed to be the least irritating. Don't mix Vitamin C with retinol, use them on different nights. You can also mix a liquid highlighter in your foundation.  

Dermatologist Goldenberg recommends "a gentle cleanser, twice daily moisturizer (with sunscreen every morning), and a vitamin A cream at night, such as retin-A or retinol.” Drinking plenty of water, getting a good nights sleep and eating a diet low in salt and processed food should also improve your skin.

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