1. 80's VIBES
Left Marc Jacobs Others. Centre Louis Vuitton Rex Right Kenzo Rex |
Spring Summer 2017 took on the 80's in a big way. The makeup from Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton and Kenzo stood out the most. Makeup at Louis Vuitton seemed to be channeling 80's singer Boy George with lots of liner and bright colours. Marc Jacobs used pastel dreadlocks for his 80's Club Kids, which caused controversy for appropriating dreadlocks from the Rastafarian culture. Nars did the makeup for Marc Jacobs and he used gloss in various pastel shades to complement rather compete with the dreads each model wore. He added brown false lashes and clear lip gloss. At Kenzo, makeup artist Lynsey Alexander used MAC's Lip Pencil in Ruby Woo and MAC's Retro Matte Lipstick and Liquid Colour for her 'Glamazon' look.
2. THE NATURAL LOOK
Left Burberry Imaxtree,Centre Michael Kors Indigital Right Lanvin Indigital |
Lanvin won praise for doing the 'No Makeup Make up look' so well. Foundation and contour were expertly blended so they remained completely undetected on the models. Burberry makeup artist Wendy Rowe applied Burberry's liquid lip velvet in Fawn Rose on models and made sure the skin was matte. At Michael Kors makeup artist Dick Page kept the look soft but natural- matte skin, groomed brows and no mascara. In some cases he even skipped lipstick and blush.
3. DEWY SKIN
Left Givenchy Indigtal.Centre Prada Getty Images Right Anna Hindmarch Getty Images |
Givenchy has certainly mastered the art of fresh looking skin that has a no foundation feel to it. Over at Anna Hindmarch makeup artist Val Garland wanted models to have 'reflective faces...very beautiful and pure like they had gone on a spaceship.' She used Elizabeth Arden's Hour Cream Intensive Daily Moisturiser for Face. The rest of the makeup was kept to a minimum to highlight the skin. She added cream liner on the waterline, gloss on the lips and skipped false lashes. Pat Mcgrath did the makeup at Prada, where she groomed brows, subtlety defined the eyes and made sure skin looked flawless.
4. DRAPING BLUSH
Left Kenzo Rex Centre Chanel Right Adam Selman Spencer C. Amonwatvorakul |
The draping technique involves blush being applied from the cheekbone all the way up to the brow and temples. This was most obvious at Kenzo but at Chanel the blusher was softer and more wearable. The trend was also seen at Adam Selman where pink blush was draped on both darker and lighter models.
5. BRONZED SKIN
Left Philosophy Getty Images Centre Blumarine Getty Images Right Wang Imaxtree |
Bronzed models are a given at the spring/summer fashion shows. At Philosophy, Tom Pecheux was inspired by the '80's film Blue Lagoon. The bronzed skin and a slightly 'damaged smoky eye' were to make the girls look like they've 'been on an island for several days.' He stippled MAC's Face and Body Lotion in Million Dollar Bling over the nose, cheeks and eyes to achieve a sun kissed look. Then he added some freckles with MAC's Penultimate Brow Marker. He applied MAC's Teddy Pencil on the lower lash line, MAC's Clear Brow Set and finally some of MAC's Lip Conditioner. At Blumarine cheeks were bronzed and highlighted. At Alexander Wang, makeup artist Diane Kendal wanted to create 'a surfer girl nude look,' with matte bronze skin, sunkissed light brows and pale lips.
6. GLITTER LIPS
Left Maison Margiela Getty Images Centre DKNY Getty Images Right Fendi Getty Images |
At DKNY Pat McGrath used her Lust 004 Lipstick Kit in Bloodwine on the lips and left skin and eyes natural so that they didn't take the focus away from the lips. McGrath also did the make up for Maison Margiel with blue and silver lipstick topped in glitter. Glitter lips continued at Fendi, they were covered in chunky pink glitter to capture the look of a cartoon anime character.
7. Red Lips
Left Roksanda Rex Features Centre Valli Right- Right Mary Katrantzou Indigital |
8. SMUDGY BLACK GLOSSY EYES
Left Baja East Getty Images. Centre Balmain Getty Images Right Altruzarra Kerastase |
At Baja East makeup artist Dianne Kendal wanted to create an 'urban beach girl look.' She buffed MAC kajal crayon around the eyes and used MAC's Mixing Medium in Shine.
Oliver Roustering, the creative director of Balmain wanted the girls 'to look like they had just come of the beach- sweaty and sexy with a bit of a tan.' Pecheux seems to have interpreted this as a sexy, smoky look instead. He blended MAC's Eye Pencil in Teddy into the lower lash line and used black eyeliner on the upper lash line before using it to shade the entire eyelid and applying gloss. He used eye liner in place of eye shadow because it works better with eye gloss. Cheeks were contoured and highlighted as well.
For Altruzzara, Pecheux used MAC Studio Waterweight SPF30 Foundation. Instead of traditional bronzer he used MAC's Glitter in Reflect Bronze. For the eyes he used black kohl liner in the waterline and lash line. Then he used MAC's Studio Orange Eye Gloss all over the lid and used a cotton bud to smudge the liner on the lower lash line for a greasy, worn in look. He applied MAC's Mineralised Skin Finish for a glowing complexion. Finally he added mascara to the roots of the lashes and some lip balm on the lips.Oliver Roustering, the creative director of Balmain wanted the girls 'to look like they had just come of the beach- sweaty and sexy with a bit of a tan.' Pecheux seems to have interpreted this as a sexy, smoky look instead. He blended MAC's Eye Pencil in Teddy into the lower lash line and used black eyeliner on the upper lash line before using it to shade the entire eyelid and applying gloss. He used eye liner in place of eye shadow because it works better with eye gloss. Cheeks were contoured and highlighted as well.
9. WINGED EYE LINER
Left Moschino Getty Images Centre Elie Saab Getty Images Right Fendi Sony Vandevelde /Indigital |
In contrast to the natural look was the glamorous, definitely wearing makeup look. At Moschino, makeup artist Tom Pecheux went for the '90's supermodel look that he created originally on Cindy Crawford and Linda Evanglista. It was a very made up look using neutral colours. He teamed flawless foundation, four different shades of brown eye shadow, false lashes, drawn on brows and MAC's lip pencil in Spice on the lips. At Elie Saab a small angled brush was dipped in MAC's Pro Longwear Fluidline in Black Track to draw on a small half flick for a elongated kitten eye look. Then gold glitter was applied. Girls at Fendi also wore a bold, disjointed cat eye where the inner and outer corners had been lined while the middle of each lid were left bare.
10. GRAPHIC EYE SHADOW AND LINER
Left Salvatore Getty Images centre Victoria Beckham Getty Images
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At Salvatore, the graphic eye was created by applying MAC's Paintstick in Genuine Orange in a thick line above the crease and MAC Studio Eye Gloss in Next Up Neon added on top ''to amplify the colour and add shine. Brows were filled in using MAC's Eyebrow Eye pencil in Stud and set with MAC's Brun eye shadow. Over at Victoria Beckham, Pat McGrath used her finger to swipe a blue flash across the eyelids (from Beckham's Estee Lauder collection.) For Cividini neon coral was striped across the eye accompanied by copper glitter.
11. BURGUNDY AND PINK EYES
Left Anna Sui Getty Images Centre Tadash Shoji Getty Images Right Topshop Unique Imaxtree |
Makeup artist Pat Mcgrath working for Anna Sui, used a port wine shade around the eyes and taupe lipstick on the lips. It was a sort of mash up of 1960's, folk, rock chic and a cowgirl look. The 80's vibes led Topshop Unique to create an 'Eighties powerlook with a soft and sexy finish.' Permed hair was teamed with russet brown lids using Topshop Beauty Colour Wand in Angels mixed with Temptation lipisick up to the brow bone. Then vaseline was layered on top. Topshop's Beauty Glow Stick in Play up was used as a glossy highlighter on the nose, cheeks and cupids bow. While at Tadash Shoji pink shadow was daubed across the eye lids.
12. BOLD COLOUR EYES
Left Byblos Imaxtree/Matteo Scarpellini Centre Vivetta Getty Images Right Jill Sandler Getty Images |
Bright colours such as blue, purple and pink were a common trend. At Byblos models wore blue, teal or yellow from lid to brow bone and at Vivetta models wore candy floss pink eyeshadow. Ombre eyes were seen at Jill Stuar using icy blue and salmon pink shades.
13. A POP OF NEON
Left Proenza Schouler Getty Images Centre Max Mara Getty Images Right Ackerman Getty Images |
Working for Proenza Schouler, Diane Kendal took the unusual step of painting sunflower yellow and white pigment onto models' ear lobes to highlight the statement earrings. While at Max Mara, Pecheux took bright colours all the way from edge of the eyes to the temple. He used a minimal amount of pigment to make sure that the brush strokes were clearly visible. Lynsey Alexander described the make up at Haider Ackermann as 'slightly punk inspired but with a ballerina edge.' To create the birds of paradise eyeliner she mixed yellow pigment with a white cream liner. Afterwards she used a cotton bud dipped in cleansing water to clean up the look. The skin was kept matte apart form highlighter on the cheekbones for 'bounce.'
Which trend is your favourite and will you be trying any of these out?
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