The Lipstick Drawer: History of Lipstick From Clara Bow to Marilyn Monroe

Updated 2021

In 1912 Guerlain was able to package lip colour into a stick which made lipstick popular because it was more convenient and more accessible beyond the theatre and back rooms. While the increase in factories and populated cities caused pollution to spread, make up was being touted as a mask that could protect the face from all the dirt. Cosmetic adverts portrayed the mouth as an innocent hole sucking in germs and that cosmetic products such as lipstick could protect against this.

Applying lipstick was still a messy process as it was in cardboard tubes until 1915, Maurice Levy of the Scovil Manufacturing Company in Waterbury invented a metal case that was influenced by the shape of a bullet to contain this lip stick. Called 'Levy Tubes' they were two inches long with a plain dipped nickel finish with a lever on the side to move lipstick up the barrel. Since these tubes could be mass produced this new product was affordable to those in work as well as richer women in society. Some lipstick samples today resemble the original tubes albeit made from plastic. Later the lever was replaced by a screw thread inside that pushed the lipstick up.

In 1923 James Bruce Mason Junior patents the first swivel up lipstick. Mass production and lower prices resulted in a booming make up industry. During the 1920's there were a vast array of designs. The metal tubes were made from nickel, plated brass or aluminium. "There are rich designs in burnt aluminium and in silver of exquisite colour and finish; doubles, in which the slide moves both ways; swivel type; flat ovals and those with hinged caps to prevent loss at the top. America is foremost in their production, followed by Germany and then France." (Lipsticks, 1927, p. 421)

Max Factor and Hollywood

Heat from the lights on film sets caused lip pomade to run and it was Max Factor who solved this problem by using greasepaint foundation around the mouth, covering the lip outline and then pressing two thumbs prints of pomade on the upper lip and two upside down thumb prints on the lower lip. Finally he used a brush to draw in the corners and contours. It served a functional purpose but concentrated on the centre of the lip, applying lipstick to the corners was considered to be vulgar.lMax Factor eventually renamed his products 'make up' rather than cosmetics, thus the term 'make up' once reserved for theatre was suddenly used by everyone as other companies followed his lead.

Max Factor teaches Hollywood film star Louise Fazenda how to apply lipstick Courtesy of Max Factor 1924

1920s

From Gibson Girl To Flapper Girl

Additionally Showbiz that once created disapproval was now seen as glamorous. Hollywood beauty was now aspirational . Film magazines such as Photo Play and Motion Pictures showed what products film stars used.

Vanity Cases with handles and chains allowed on the go touch ups.

The 1930's

Despite the Great Depression The Daily Mail (UK) reported “in 1931 that 1,500 lipsticks were being sold to women for every 1 being sold in 1921!” Make up was one of the very few industries that came out of the depression richer than ever before. Women flocked to beauty salons, seeking respite from the dreary monotonous world. Later coined the Lipstick Index, it explains why women spend money on beauty products (mostly lipstick) during economic recessions- buyng a small indulgent item helps us to feel better.

As the roaring twenties was replaced by the Great depression, it's influence was felt in make up trends: lipstick went from carefree flirtation to a restrictive perfectionist ideal. Lips were angular and severe achieved by the use of lip liners and lip stencils. Stars Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo popularised this look. Technicolor films meant that women could now see on screen and shop for the actual lipstick colour as well as applying the right lip shape.

look is that the shape of the upper lip mimics and is just as plump as the lower lip. The curve that begins at the low point of cupids bow and rounds out to the outer corner like the top of a heart, as opposed to the gradual decline of a natural lip

As Women became more visible in society entering workplaces in larger numbers than before the first world war, make-up, once the sign of a disreputable woman, was now used by professional and middle class ladies to present their best face to society.

Advances saw perfume being added to lipstick and Helena Rubenstein developed the first clinical lipsticks with sun protectors.

Right: Actress Marlene Dietrich, Wikipeadia Left: Greta Garbo fillm Inspiration (1931 )Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Source

The 1940's

In America, make up was seen as important for good morale during WW2. The US director of Economic Stabilisation instructed factory dressing rooms to be stocked with lipstick to improve work productivity. Tangee, a leading make up company ran a 'War women and Lipstick' campaign' stating 'If a symbol were needed...of this courage and strength- I would choose lipstick.....A woman's lipstick is an instrument of personal morale that helps her to conceal heartbreak or sorrow, gives her self confidence when it's badly needed.' Lipstick made women look less tired. Women were encouraged to continue wearing lipstick and to send letters to the front with lipstick kisses to boost the morale of soldiers. Adverts warned women to buy sparingly. So women hung onto their lipsticks and savoured their use for nights out only and when nurses were evacuated by submarines they always escaped carrying their lipsticks.

photo credit CNN

Woman Aircraft worker, California USA 1942 David Bransbury Source

In the United States, lipstick survived rationing after women protested the War Production Board’s plan to ration it. However the US War Production Board forbade companies developing new make up products. A concession was made for Elizabeth Arden who was commissioned to create beauty kits for the Marine Corps Women’s Reserve. The kit included two red lipsticks in Montezuma Red and Victory Red and rouge in a box with a mirror. The red lipstick matched the red on the uniform scarf, the cord on the hat and and arm. A winged letter A are on the closure of the box and metal tube.

Photo Credit Left Worthpoint Right

Lipsticks tubes were manufactured in plastic tubes instead of metal.

Unfortunately for women in the UK, lipstick production ground to a halt. The only way to obtain it was on the black market, buying secretly from bootleggers. women resorted to using beetroot to add colour to their lips. Rouge (blusher) was also in short supply in Britain and across Europe so women lucky enough to own a lipstick applied it to the cheeks as well.

In contrast to the long slim lips of the 1930’s full luscious pouts were popular.

Hunters now or the smear

The 1950's

The end of war signalled a change in lipstick fashion, lips were overlined to look fuller and seductive symbolising good health an encouraging reproduction and re-population Hollywood film stars wore bright red lipstpick

The 50's gave birth to the 'teenagers' and advertisers now targeted girls as well as women, creating lipstick names such as 'Milkmaid pink' to appeal to them. Teenagers shunned traditional red lipstick perferring pastel tones like lavender, pink and peach colours. The Ronettes made wearing white lipstick popular as well.

Left: Joan Crawford Pixabay
Centre Marilyn Monroe USA Today
Right: Bette Davis Pixabay

In 1951 Lipcote was invented. It was a clear liquid that could be applied over lipstick to make lipstick last longer and prevent smears.

In 1952 Queen Elizabeth II asked Clarins to commission a lipstick for her coronation. The blue toned red was called 'The Balmoral Lipstick' named after her Scottish country estate.