This season's biggest surprise has been bright, neon colours usually reserved for the spring/summer seasons. Eyes were neon yellow, orange and both pink and blue at Christian Siriano. Bold eye liners in red, yellow, purple, green and blue circled the eyes as well as traditional black liner drawn in tiny winged flicks at Pucci to a bolder graphic eye at Marras. In short, black or rainbow coloured eye liner is a must have for your make up bag!
Black smoky eyes made an appearance at Tom Ford and La Petite Robe. But smoky eyes didn't just come in black but in jewel toned purple at Carolina Herrera, green at Armani and even bronze at Etro. Metallic shades were made very wearable by using silver as inner eye highlight at Tommy Hilfiger, a silver liner on bare eyelids at Franchi and gold eye shadow at Huelle. Gold leaf was added to the inner and outer corners of heavily kohl eyes at Akin and at Laroche the contrast of gold swipes across the eyes and lips against the models dark skin was very striking. However the glitter face mask at Giambatistta Valli was an absolute show stopper. I think you can probably get away with glitter on the forehead and hair at a party or a festival. Although far more wearable is the beautiful, feminine lilac and iridescent white eye makeup at Oscar De La Renta and the glitter smokey eye at Carmen Marc Valvo.
On the other end of the spectrum was the natural look. Full brows aren't going anywhere but they are more natural looking than the instagram brow. They go with the subtle 'boyish blush' and glowing skin trends.
Finally red lips never go out of style and as well as the usual dark vampy red lips, this season it's also all about cherry lips- a bright blue based red.
1. Bright Eyes
At Ferragamo makeup artists created neon eyes using MAC Cosmetics Chromaline gel in Genuine Orange £17 and Chromacake Pigment £22.50. Colour block make up at Christian Siriano was inspired by Grace Jones. He used products from his collaboration with E.L.F. His matte pink liquid lipstick Electric Fuchsia was actually used on models eyelids while the turquoise and navy eye shadows from his eye shadow palette Bold Bouquet a collaboration with E.L.F was applied on the lower lash line. At Noon eyes were neon yellow.
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2. Bright Liner
Head make up artist Peter Philips at Dior decided to apply eye liner that matched the colour of the sunglasses worn by each model. He used Diorshow On Stage colourful felt tip liners in Matte Red and Matte Rusty. At Eudon Choi models eyes were circled in yellow or red liner using MAC Cosmetics Chromaline in Primary Yellow or Basic Red £17. To make this trend more wearable just focus on the lash line for a pop of colour. The colourful superhero mask worn at Sies Marjan was created by MAC Cosmetics Chromaline and Chromacakes in four different combinations: red and purple, purple and blue, teal and blue and orange and green. The rest of the face was left make up free so that the focus was on the eyes.
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3. Winged Liner
Pucci wanted models to look like ' baby Marilyn Monroes.' The look was created with MAC's Brushstroke Liner in Brushblack £18.50 drawn only along a third of the upper lash line. This was paired with MAC Cosmetics Haute & Naughty Lash Mascara £20 and balanced by a neutral lipstick - MAC Cosmetics Cremesheen in Pure Zen, £17.50 and Clear Gloss £15.50, for added shine. At Sonia Rykiel models eyes were heavily lined while girls at No. 21 wore double winged liner.
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4. Graphic eyes
Models at Jeremy Scott wore one of the most innovative looks of the season using plastic wire and MAC Cosmetics acrylic paint to achieve 3D flap eyeliner wings. The 3D blue wings below were created using Hi-Def Cyan, the pink wings with Process Magenta and yellow wings used with Primary Yellow acrylic paint. Lips were given a natural finish using the MAC X Jeremy Scott's Lip X 9 Future Emotions Palette $21. At Marras a thick bold graphic eye was softened and brightened with a pink magenta shade, while Zero +Maria Cornejo went for a messy graphic eye.
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5. Smokey eyes
For a messy, smoky eye Tom Ford used eye kohl in Intense Onyx £27 and added Tom Ford eye gloss £32. Marc Jacobs went for a 80's smoky eye extending the flick towards the side of the face. Make up artist Dianne Kendall used jewel toned eye shadows, liquid and gel liners that matched what each model was wearing. She used Marc Jacobs Eye-Conic Eye shadow palettes £32 and Marc Jacobs Shamless Youthful Look 24 Hour Foundation £32
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Other alternatives to the traditional black and silver smoky eye appeared at Caroline Herrera. Head makeup artist Dianne Kendal created a blue and purple 'midnight smoky.' For the eyes she used MAC Cosmetic pigment in Naval Blue and Platinum (both £16.50.) Haute and Naughty Lash Mascara £20 completed the look. Models at Etro had a bronze smoky eye while at Armani, shimmery shades of green, black and silver formed a camouflage smoky eye look.
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6. Metallic Make Up
At Tommy Hilfiger silver eye shadow 'similar to the chrome of a car' was used to highlight the inner corners of the eye for a glowy, wide awake look. To finish the look lashes were coated in Maybelline Total Temptations Mascara £8.99. Another silver, minimalist look was spotted at Franchi where silver eye liner was applied to bare eye lids. At Delponzo silver Nars Eye Paint in Insterstellar £18.50 was applied in a slap dash fashion across the eyes. Skin was deliberately matte by using Nars Soft Matte Complete Concealer (£24) and Nars Soft Velvet Loose Powder £28 to highlight the metallic shadow. At Lutz Huelle models wore gold eye shadow.
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7. Glitter
Glitter doesn't have to be brash and obvious, sometimes a little does go a long way. The makeup at Oscar De La Renta was very feminine and delicate. They applied the lavendar sparkle shade 'Ice Lolly' from MAC Cosmetics Trend Forecast The Fall 18 Cream Eye Palette U.S $40.Then MAC Cosmetics Grand Illusion Glossy Liquid Lip Color in Pink Trip £18.50 was dabbed onto the centre of the lid and blended. Finally MAC Cosmetics Iridescent White glitter was also patted onto the centre of the lids and a little under the lower lashes. Using the Trend Forecast Fall 18 palette the shade 'Maybe I will' a deep rose colour was used across the cheeks. At Alice McCall gold glitter was concentrated in the inner eye taking it up to the brow bone while at Genny silver glitter was applied to outer lids and extended upwards towards the brow. At Valvo models sported a gorgeous glittery smoky eye.
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Since the clothing collection at Preen was inspired by Korean female divers searching for pearls, model's skin was kept dewy as if they'd just been in the water. To achieve this dewy look MAC Cosmetics Prep + Prime Fix, £19 and Studio Moisture Cream, £25 were used. Make up artists mixed MAC Cosmetics Mixing Medium Shine, with MAC Cosmetics Iridescent white glitter (although it looks gold in the photos) both £16.50. Then the mixture was blown onto onto models forehead and hairline.
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When I first saw the eye make up at Kate Spade I thought the gems were drops of water! They are actually Swarovski Shimmer Effect Hotfix Crystals £4.39 which were glued on using eyelash glue and tweezers. The rest of the face were kept relatively bare, skin was prepped with MAC Studio Moisture Cream £25 and then MAC Studio Finish Concealer £12.50 where needed. Thick groomed brows accompanied the look. At Prada legendary make up artist Pat Mcgrath used her Subversive La Vie en Rose Palette (£43) to create an edgy and colourful winged eye liner studded with Swarovski crystals. While at Zinko, gems replaced eye liner for a striking effect.
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9. Glowing skin
At Temperley Charlotte Tilbury debuted her Hollywood Flawless Filter backstage to achieve a "gorgeous, glossy, all-over, superstar-lit glow." For the eye makeup Charlotte Tilbury Eyes To Mesmerise in Bette and Star Gold £22, was applied. Then Hollywood Beauty Light Wand, £29 was added for glow and Charlotte Tilbury Hot Lips in Tell Laura on the lips. To accompany Emilia Wickstead's 'love story' clothing collection, make up artists concentrated on giving models 'a youthful, glowing blush you get when falling in love.' Models were given facials by Caroline Hirons for a radiant finish followed by Zelens blush in Apricot an illuminating powder designed to give a lit from within glow. Zelens lip treatment was finally applied on the lips. Isabel Marant also went with a natural glow using brush of bronzer to define the cheekbones and a natural lipstick that subtlety gave each models skin tone a boost.
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10. Brows
At Arfen models' brows were brushed up and thickened with Nars' Brow Perfector £18.50, and Nars Oural Brow Gel £18.50. To define the eyes, makeup artists used Nars Powermatte Lip Pigment in Somebody To Love to add a natural looking redness around the eyes. For full brows at Toga, makeup artists used the same Nars brow products as above. Full brows also made an appearance at the Brock Collection accompanied with a neutral eye shadow and lip.
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11. Blush
Lead makeup artist Lyndsey Alexander for Mary Katranzou wanted her models to 'look like young boys on a cold day.' In other words a minimal, natural, just come in from the col,d pink blush. She used a fan brush to apply MAC Cosmetics Mineralize Blush in Bubbles Please £23 but much lower on the cheeks rather than on the apples of the cheeks.
Over at House of Holland head makeup artist Zoe Taylor decided that a natural, wind flushed cheek would complement the inspiration behind the latest collection of 'urban hiking.' She used Lord and Berry Absolute Intensity lipstick in Sweetheart for a caramel blush on the apples of the cheeks and a dot of Lord and Berry Lipstick in Advant Guard terracotta high in the centre of the cheeks.
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12. Red Lips - Cherry Red
Red lipstick never goes out of fashion. The colour this season was cherry red, a blue toned red shade. At Brandon Maxwell lead make up artist Tom Pecheux used MAC Cosmetics Lip pencil in Cherry. He then took an eye liner brush to apply MAC Cosmetics Retro Matte Lipcolour In Feels so Grand and added a highlighter to the cupids bow. Then for a twist he added MAC Cosmetics Glitter in Gold to the top lip line but stopping before the out thirds. Cherry red lips was also seen at No. 21 and at Shoji the lipstick was sheer and glossier.
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13. Dark Berry Reds
At an Autumn/Winter fashion show expect to see dark berry lips. At Cushnie Et Ochs models wore a dark berry lipstick using Maybelline Superstay Matte Ink Lip Colour in Voyager £9.99 topped up with Maybelline Lip Python 5 Passionate £9.99. Rochas went for a stained just eaten berriers look while at Chocheng lips were dark and glossy.
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