7 Beauty Myths Debunked

Updated May 2020

1. Alcohol is such a common ingredient so it can't be that bad. False! There are some good alcohols like stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol which are great for the skin, particularly dry skin because they are emollient (moisturising.) These alcohols are also used as a thickener to improve the texture of a product and to keep the ingredients stable. 

However it is denatured alcohol otherwise known as SD alcohol, isopropyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol which is a problematic ingredient, especially if it's listed in top three on an ingredient list because that means there's a large amount of it in the product. Denatured alcohol is used in cosmetics for a quick-drying feel or to immediately degrease skin for a matte finish while feeling weightless on skin. While it sounds like a hero ingredient for oily skin types looking for ways to control oil, denatured alcohol can actually cause enlarged pores and bumps and dry out the skin because it's too harsh. It can strip the skin of essential lipids, proteins and fats which maintain the skin barrier resulting in a weak skin barrier that's prone to inflammation and irritation.  It can also create even more oiliness because the immediate de-greasing effect is eventually counteracted, leaving your skin looking even more shiny. It's also been said that alcohol helps other ingredients such as retinol and Vitamin C absorb into the skin more efficiently. While it does enhance absorption of ingredients, the alcohol also destroys the skin barrier and it's not worth the negative effect it has on the skin.

2. Mineral Oil is bad for the skin- Not always! If you have acne prone skin you may want to  avoid it but it's good for dry or sensitive skin types*

Mineral oil is a transparent, odorless oil derived from petroleum. It’s then purified to become cosmetic grade mineral oil. Mineral oils are used in cosmetic products for it's moisturising properties.  Mineral oil contain large molecules making it difficult to penetrated the layers of skin and instead will sit on top of the skin. This enables it to trap moisture and prevent it from leaving your body, so that the skin feels more moisturised and less dry. This protective layer on the skin creates a barrier against environment stressors such as wind and pollution. Some people do use products that contains mineral oil to form an 'occulsive barrier' that seals all their nightime products underneath while they sleep.

Another reason why mineral oil is al used in cosmetics is because of the low likelihood of causing a skin reaction (making it a good choice for sensitive skin) and the fact that it doesn't spoil in hot, humid climates. It’s completely safe, soothing and non-sensitising. Mineral oil is actually classed as as low on the comedogenic scale (0-2) which means that by itself it's not pore clogging. However mineral oil can trap other ingredients onto the top layer of the epidermis which can lead to clogged pores if that ingredient is known to clog pores. Heavier products such as face balms and ointment tend to be heavy and are more occulsive  which may make some acne and rosea prone skin worse. In this case choose lighter formulas or perhaps avoid using this ingredient.

Conclusion- It is safe to use. It's good for dry skin but may aggrate acne prone skin or those with rosea espeically if it's a balm testure. It's best when used by itself eg vaseline or in a product that contains other ingredients that are low on the comedogenic scale. 

Photo by Becky Fantham on Unsplash

3. The Natural is better fallacy. Natural Skin and body care products are often claimed to be better for you as they don't contain 'chemicals.' However natural does not equal better. Arsenic is a natural chemical but it's posionous and fatal to us even if it's just rubbed onto the skin. It's better to look at the ingredients lists for common irritants like essential oils particularly lavender.  Mint essential oils can also be irritating if you have sensitive or acne prone skin so avoid using peppermint, eucalyptus and spearmint. Citrus essential oils are also irritants, they include lemon, orange, bergamot and lemongrass. 

4. Do not assume that expensive products will work better. Yes high end brands will have more money to invest in the latest technology and invest in quality ingredients but it is possible to find something that works and doesn't cost the earth. For example award winning brand The Ordinary was a game changer by making skincare products such as oils, AHAs and BHA's at affordable prices. Skincare brand Garden of Wisdom and The Inky List rival The Ordinary with their affordable pricing, although I haven't tried any of  their products yet I've read lots of good reviews. I love Simple skincare because they cater to my sensitive skin, their products are often fragrance free and they can be found in any drugstore. I also like Aveeno because I've never reacted to their products and they're fairly gentle on the skin. In fact in the Eve Lom cleansing Balm is the main ingredient is mineral oil which is quite inexpensive and yet the product retails at £55.

5. Oily Skin does not need moisturising and you shouldn't use oil on oily skin -Wrong!

Your skin still needs hydration whatever the type. With oily skin you will find that the oil lubricates the skin but does not provide moisture. (This is why dehydrated skin and dry skin also get mixed up. Dehydrated skin lacks water not oil. Dry skin types just lacks oil.) A common mistake is to avoid oils and just use cleansers that end up removing the natural oil (sebum) in the skin. Unfortunately this will just prompt the skin to overcompensate for this dryness and produce more oil! The Oil Cleansing Method is based on the idea that like disolves like-  meaning that oil is able to dissolve and remove excess oil/sebum, clear out clogged pores and remove waterproof makeup and dead skin. Oil cleansing can help regulate oil production by balancing the skin and maintaing hydration. For oily skin types jojoba oil is supposed to be good balancing oils and reducing acne.

6.  The SPF in my foundation is all I need- Wrong! While it's great that some foundations have SPF, often they're too low to adequately protect your skin against the sun (e.g. SPF15, SPF20.) While foundations with higher SPF of 30 and above are better they still need to be liberally applied on the face but we don't tend to apply foundation this way so we apply too little.

So what should you do instead? Either apply sunscreen underneath your foundation or try layering products with SPF in them. Layering products means that the layer will become thick enough to protect your face from the sun. To layer products, one of them must be at least SPF30 and applied liberally all over the face. Choose products for your skin type and layer them by texture. For example if you have oily skin, a lightweight, matte finish moisturiser with SPF 30 can be generously applied first, then a primer with sunscreen and finally a liquid or powder foundation with sunscreen. If you want to add an eye cream with SPF, apply it after your SPF moisturiser and then put on makeup.

Note: Beware of SPF maths! Applying an moisturiser with SPF 30, and then a primer with SPF 15, and then a foundation with SPF 25 doesn’t add up to SPF 70 but it does give more sun protection which is the most important thing.


7. The white specks under your nails means you have a calcium deficiency-Wrong!

Credit Almay

These white blotches are called Leukonychia punctata. They are caused by damage to the base of the nail also known as the matrix. Nails consist of cells containing large amount of sturdy protein called keratin. These cells grow outwards to form fingernails and toenails. Any damage to the matrix will stop any newly formed keratin filled cells from bonding together properly. This resuts in a small white blotch  at the bottom of the nail. The blotch moves upwards as it begins to grow. The damage or trauma to the nail can be from excessive tapping, chewing nails, smacking a table, even a vigorious manicure or slamming a finger in the door. We don't tend to make the connection as to what caused the white blotch because our nails take so long to grow. It can take up to 6 weeks for the damage in the matrix to grow and manifest itself as a white spot in the nail. By then we've forgotton about the time we smacked the table in frustration or tapped our fingers in impatience or nervously chewed our nails at an interview or had a vigorius manicure. These blotches are like nail bruises. Simple white blotches on the nails aren't harmful and they will grow out but it can take up to 8 months. However if the nail is completely white it could be sign of someting serious such as liver cirrhosis, kidney failure or heart disease, so it's best to go and see a doctor.

Refrences
2. *Brydie Dermatologists settle the mineral oil debate. / Paula's Choice Ingredients Dictory /Dr Dray The Truth about mineral oil in skincare
5.Healthline Oil Cleansing Method How it Works Healthline Jojoba Oil & Acne Does it Work? / Bustle Beauty Myths we need to leave behind. 
7. The Naked Scientist Myth: why we get white spots on our nails / Wikipedia Leukonychia/ The Sun Do you have white marks on your nails?