7 Beauty Myths Debunked

Updated May 2020

1. Alcohol is such a common ingredient so it can't be that bad. False! There are some good alcohols like stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol which are great for the skin, particularly dry skin because they are emollient (moisturising.) These alcohols are also used as a thickener to improve the texture of a product and to keep the ingredients stable. 

However it is denatured alcohol otherwise known as SD alcohol, isopropyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol which is a problematic ingredient, especially if it's listed in top three on an ingredient list because that means there's a large amount of it in the product. Denatured alcohol is used in cosmetics for a quick-drying feel or to immediately degrease skin for a matte finish while feeling weightless on skin. While it sounds like a hero ingredient for oily skin types looking for ways to control oil, denatured alcohol can actually cause enlarged pores and bumps and dry out the skin because it's too harsh. It can strip the skin of essential lipids, proteins and fats which maintain the skin barrier resulting in a weak skin barrier that's prone to inflammation and irritation.  It can also create even more oiliness because the immediate de-greasing effect is eventually counteracted, leaving your skin looking even more shiny. It's also been said that alcohol helps other ingredients such as retinol and Vitamin C absorb into the skin more efficiently. While it does enhance absorption of ingredients, the alcohol also destroys the skin barrier and it's not worth the negative effect it has on the skin.

2. Mineral Oil is bad for the skin- Not always! If you have acne prone skin you may want to  avoid it but it's good for dry or sensitive skin types*

Mineral oil is a transparent, odorless oil derived from petroleum. It’s then purified to become cosmetic grade mineral oil. Mineral oils are used in cosmetic products for it's moisturising properties.  Mineral oil contain large molecules making it difficult to penetrated the layers of skin and instead will sit on top of the skin. This enables it to trap moisture and prevent it from leaving your body, so that the skin feels more moisturised and less dry. This protective layer on the skin creates a barrier against environment stressors such as wind and pollution. Some people do use products that contains mineral oil to form an 'occulsive barrier' that seals all their nightime products underneath while they sleep.

Another reason why mineral oil is al used in cosmetics is because of the low likelihood of causing a skin reaction (making it a good choice for sensitive skin) and the fact that it doesn't spoil in hot, humid climates. It’s completely safe, soothing and non-sensitising. Mineral oil is actually classed as as low on the comedogenic scale (0-2) which means that by itself it's not pore clogging. However mineral oil can trap other ingredients onto the top layer of the epidermis which can lead to clogged pores if that ingredient is known to clog pores. Heavier products such as face balms and ointment tend to be heavy and are more occulsive  which may make some acne and rosea prone skin worse. In this case choose lighter formulas or perhaps avoid using this ingredient.

Conclusion- It is safe to use. It's good for dry skin but may aggrate acne prone skin or those with rosea espeically if it's a balm testure. It's best when used by itself eg vaseline or in a product that contains other ingredients that are low on the comedogenic scale. 

Photo by Becky Fantham on Unsplash

3. The Natural is better fallacy. Natural Skin and body care products are often claimed to be better for you as they don't contain 'chemicals.' However natural does not equal better. Arsenic is a natural chemical but it's posionous and fatal to us even if it's just rubbed onto the skin. It's better to look at the ingredients lists for common irritants like essential oils particularly lavender.  Mint essential oils can also be irritating if you have sensitive or acne prone skin so avoid using peppermint, eucalyptus and spearmint. Citrus essential oils are also irritants, they include lemon, orange, bergamot and lemongrass. 

4. Do not assume that expensive products will work better. Yes high end brands will have more money to invest in the latest technology and invest in quality ingredients but it is possible to find something that works and doesn't cost the earth. For example award winning brand The Ordinary was a game changer by making skincare products such as oils, AHAs and BHA's at affordable prices. Skincare brand Garden of Wisdom and The Inky List rival The Ordinary with their affordable pricing, although I haven't tried any of  their products yet I've read lots of good reviews. I love Simple skincare because they cater to my sensitive skin, their products are often fragrance free and they can be found in any drugstore. I also like Aveeno because I've never reacted to their products and they're fairly gentle on the skin. In fact in the Eve Lom cleansing Balm is the main ingredient is mineral oil which is quite inexpensive and yet the product retails at £55.

5. Oily Skin does not need moisturising and you shouldn't use oil on oily skin -Wrong!

Your skin still needs hydration whatever the type. With oily skin you will find that the oil lubricates the skin but does not provide moisture. (This is why dehydrated skin and dry skin also get mixed up. Dehydrated skin lacks water not oil. Dry skin types just lacks oil.) A common mistake is to avoid oils and just use cleansers that end up removing the natural oil (sebum) in the skin. Unfortunately this will just prompt the skin to overcompensate for this dryness and produce more oil! The Oil Cleansing Method is based on the idea that like disolves like-  meaning that oil is able to dissolve and remove excess oil/sebum, clear out clogged pores and remove waterproof makeup and dead skin. Oil cleansing can help regulate oil production by balancing the skin and maintaing hydration. For oily skin types jojoba oil is supposed to be good balancing oils and reducing acne.

6.  The SPF in my foundation is all I need- Wrong! While it's great that some foundations have SPF, often they're too low to adequately protect your skin against the sun (e.g. SPF15, SPF20.) While foundations with higher SPF of 30 and above are better they still need to be liberally applied on the face but we don't tend to apply foundation this way so we apply too little.

So what should you do instead? Either apply sunscreen underneath your foundation or try layering products with SPF in them. Layering products means that the layer will become thick enough to protect your face from the sun. To layer products, one of them must be at least SPF30 and applied liberally all over the face. Choose products for your skin type and layer them by texture. For example if you have oily skin, a lightweight, matte finish moisturiser with SPF 30 can be generously applied first, then a primer with sunscreen and finally a liquid or powder foundation with sunscreen. If you want to add an eye cream with SPF, apply it after your SPF moisturiser and then put on makeup.

Note: Beware of SPF maths! Applying an moisturiser with SPF 30, and then a primer with SPF 15, and then a foundation with SPF 25 doesn’t add up to SPF 70 but it does give more sun protection which is the most important thing.


7. The white specks under your nails means you have a calcium deficiency-Wrong!

Credit Almay

These white blotches are called Leukonychia punctata. They are caused by damage to the base of the nail also known as the matrix. Nails consist of cells containing large amount of sturdy protein called keratin. These cells grow outwards to form fingernails and toenails. Any damage to the matrix will stop any newly formed keratin filled cells from bonding together properly. This resuts in a small white blotch  at the bottom of the nail. The blotch moves upwards as it begins to grow. The damage or trauma to the nail can be from excessive tapping, chewing nails, smacking a table, even a vigorious manicure or slamming a finger in the door. We don't tend to make the connection as to what caused the white blotch because our nails take so long to grow. It can take up to 6 weeks for the damage in the matrix to grow and manifest itself as a white spot in the nail. By then we've forgotton about the time we smacked the table in frustration or tapped our fingers in impatience or nervously chewed our nails at an interview or had a vigorius manicure. These blotches are like nail bruises. Simple white blotches on the nails aren't harmful and they will grow out but it can take up to 8 months. However if the nail is completely white it could be sign of someting serious such as liver cirrhosis, kidney failure or heart disease, so it's best to go and see a doctor.

Refrences
2. *Brydie Dermatologists settle the mineral oil debate. / Paula's Choice Ingredients Dictory /Dr Dray The Truth about mineral oil in skincare
5.Healthline Oil Cleansing Method How it Works Healthline Jojoba Oil & Acne Does it Work? / Bustle Beauty Myths we need to leave behind. 
7. The Naked Scientist Myth: why we get white spots on our nails / Wikipedia Leukonychia/ The Sun Do you have white marks on your nails?

My summer Legs Routine

This summer I have been reading lots of Lindsey Kelk's books while sunning myself in the garden- which has been so relaxing it's something I'd recommend to everyone! Anyway I thought I'd share my summer legs routine with you all.

Since I have sensitive sensitive skin and eczema on my knees and ankles I usually mix Oilatum oil with salt to create a body exfoiliator. For dimple free skin I suggest body brushing, using a bristle brush on dry skin brushing towards your heat is supposed to improve circulation, lymphatic drainage and beat cellulite as well as exfoliating, and this one from Sanctuary also has rubber nodules to massage the skin. Although it doesn't completely eradicate cellulite Cowshed Slender Cow Extra Firming Body Butter does the next best thing which is to drastically reduce the appearance of cellulite, so that your thighs and bum look a lot firmer and smoother, basically 10 times better than before. It contains sweet orange, grapefruit, ylang ylang and mandarin red essential oils to stimulate and tone the skin and the carrot seed oil helps to break down toxins. It has a herbal scent due to the essential oils but it doesn't irritate my sensitive skin and is the only cream I've tried that works. It makes a big difference and worth the price tag. The next step in my routine is shaving. If you have dry or sensitive skin go for a shaving cream that doesn't contain sulphates since they can strip the skin of naturally occurring oils. Use a sharp blade because duller ones need more pressure to shave leading to more friction and razor burn. I recently bought  Vaseline's Intensive Care Spray Moisturiser, it may sound like a gimmick , but spraying moisturiser on your body feels so refreshing and cooling in the heat. It also cuts down the time spent rubbing in and you don't have to wait ages before dressing. The one I picked up was the aloe version which smelt nice and fresh. It's not greasy and leaves you with soft skin but it's not what I'd call intensive, so if you're after a more moisturising boost then Garnier's Ultimate Beauty Oil is both lightweight and rich. Having eczema I've always been wary of using fake tanners on my legs, so I stuck to bronze shimmery body creams instead. However The Body Shop's Honey Bronze Tinted Leg mist  is great for a matte, realistic tan.  It's a wash off formula for fair to medium skin tones, paraben free and smells like fruit punch.  It can be layered, for my olive skin tone I used two layers (I use Bobbi Brown warm sand foundation for reference) but one layer would be enough for fair skin tones. I would leave a gap between moisturising and applying this, as moisturising seemed to dilute the colour and apply patchily. It does dry quickly and doesn't transfer or rub off but can be removed with soap and water. Finally after all that hard work and pampering it's time to make the most of the summer we have left!

B. Pure Micellar Water & B Pure Sensitive Micellar Cleansing Wipes Review

B Pure is part of Superdrug's B premium range and is cruelty free and vegan.

B Pure Micellar Water
Micellar water contains micelles, tiny round balls of cleansing molecules that float in the water. They lift dirt, make up and oil from the skin but with no need to rinse away, which is why they're so popular.  The B Pure Micellar Water is marketed as a 'Quick and easy 3 in 1 cleanser / super water 'that cleanses in just one swipe'. It claims to 'cleanse, by removing impurities and makeup, tone by restoring the ph. balance and keep the skin supple and refresh the skin with cucumber juice extract.' You can smell the cucumber but it's a pretty inoffensive smell and quite refreshing.

The directions say to use this morning and night. I had to use at least two fully soaked (ie drowned) cotton pads sometimes three, so I wouldn't say this removes dirt and makeup in one swipe as it claims to. After a few days I found this left a tacky residue on my skin which was contributing to a couple of spots on my face in random places where I never get any, such as by my ear and neck. So I went out and bought a bottle of Simple toner to use afterwards. However while the micellar water appeared to be getting all the makeup off  (the second or third pad would be clean) when I used the toner even more foundation came off. Despite this you'll be pleased to know this does remove waterproof mascara and the smell didn't make my eyes water like Liz Earle's Cleanse and Polish does. Be careful not to get it in your eyes though, because it does sting. Since the bottle was tall and transparent I could see the micellar water disappearing at a fast rate. While I liked that the B Pure Micellar Water didn't have a strong smell, I wasn't impressed with how well it cleaned my face, especially when I was wearing a full face of makeup. I needed to use a lot of product as well. I would give this a 2 out of 5 and I don't think I will be repurchasing this.

Onto the B. Pure Sensitive Micellar Face Wipes which were much better. They are very wet and moist especially compared to Nivea's. I also like that the pack has a plastic lid on top of the seal because it keeps the wipes wet and fresh. Although the packaging looks very similar to their B quick 4 in 1 Cleansing wipes they are not the same and are different prices. These are targeted to those with sensitive skin and they are hypoallergic and dermatology approved. It's also free of fragrance, colour as well as being alcohol free. The packaging has the leaping bunny logo meaning that the product is cruelty free and hasn't been tested on animals.

It takes around one and a half wipes to remove a face full of makeup (liquid foundation, blush, contour, powder) and one or two for the eyes. It is really gentle on the eyes, doesn't sting and removes waterproof mascara. I've also been on the lookout for face wipes that don't contain MI or MCI preservatives that can cause contact dermatis and these B Pure Micellar Cleansing wipes don't have these ingredients. These are wonderful, effective at removing makeup and excellent value for money with 25 wipes for only a pound! What a bargain! Definitely 5/5.


 B. Pure Sensitive Micellar Cleansing wipes for £1 Superdrug online

Ingredients

Aqua, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Glycerin, PEG- 35 Castor Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate.

 B. Pure Micellar Water is available at Superdrug £4.99 for 150ml though currently £2.38

Ingredients

Aqua, Peg-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Pentylene Glycol, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Phenoxyethanol, Propylene Glycol, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Juice, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Disodium Edta, Methylpropanediol, Citric Acid, Phosphoric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Sulfite                                                                                                                  

My daily skincare routine (Sensitive-Combination skin)

Let me start by saying I have sensitive, combination skin type with an oily t-zone and some redness around my cheeks. Due to having sensitive skin and Eczema on my body (but not my face) I tend to apply a less is more approach to skincare instead of overloading your skin with lots of products and different chemicals, a philosophy which my mum instilled in me. I also have asthma so I prefer unfragranced toiletries or those that don't have such a strong smell. Generally I stick to these long term favourites which I've used for years and trust and am reluctant to try out many new products because my skin is so sensitive. I usually cleanse with wipes and then apply toner and moisturiser each morning and evening but I'm looking into using facial oil cleansing and miscellar water.

Whenever I have had reactions to other products I always turn back to these Nivea Fragrance Free Facial Cleansing Wipes and these seem to calm and heal my skin back to its normal healthy condition. If I'm removing a full face of make up with medium to heavy coverage foundation I wash my face with Dove Soap (original) using a muslin cloth. To remove further traces of make up I follow up with Simple's Kind To skin Soothing Facial Toner. Finally I moisturise with E45 cream. I was a die hard devotee to No 7's Day cream but after 7 years I developed an allergy to it so I switched to E45 which is equally moisturising and also a lot cheaper! Even in the summer I don't find E45 heavy or greasy as it's pretty light. I'm currently not using a mosituriser with SPF protection as that seems to sting my face so I try wear SPF in my foundation, though a dedicated sunscreen for the face offers much higher level of protection and is recommended. I wear contact lenses and my eyes can get quite sensitive so I rely on No7 Beautiful Skin-Eye Make Up Remover which is ophthalmologist tested and removes any waterproof mascara or eyeliner. I always try to take advantage of the £5 off skincare vouchers Boots give out throughout the year.

What is your daily skincare routine and what products do you use?