Empties #2

I haven't written many empties posts so I thought one was long overdue. Below are products I have finished over the last few months and my opinions on them.

Boots Essentials Cucumber Cleansing Lotion
My skin suddenly got very dry and I had to switch from a hot cloth cleanser to something that wasn't as drying and much more creamier. For me the cucumber scent is so nostalgic: it reminds me of the Boots Natural Collection cucumber spray I had in my teens, the scent is very fresh. You're supposed to massage this into your skin and then wipe away or wash it off. Usually I rinsed my face afterwards but on lazy days I applied this with a cotton wool pad and then wiped it off with a wet or another dry cotton wool pad and my skin was fine, it doesn't leave a film on the skin. Initially I found that it made my cheeks feel rubbery, I don't know if this was due to the silicones (dimethicone and Silicone) but this feeling only lasted the first four times I used it.

This cleansing lotion will remove some mascaras (Benefit They're real but not Rodial) and generally all waterproof eye liners although not as easily as No 7's eye make up remover. I have sensitive skin and this hasn't irritated it or broken me out. It does contain paraffin liqiuidium (mineral oil) which has a bad rep for clogging pores and 'suffocating' skin. However a thin layer of mineral oil in a well formulated cream won't actually suffocate skin, your skin will work just fine. However I know some people are allergic to this ingredient. The cucumber extract is almost the last ingredient on the list which makes me wonder whether the cucumber has any cleansing properties at all or if it's just there for fragrance.
Repurchase? Yes, especially if I was on a tight budget.

Simple Micellar Water (sample size 50ml) 
I'm a big fan of Simple's products because I have sensitive skin. I've been using this as a morning cleanser and at night as a general cleanse or as a first cleanser in a double cleanse routine. Initially I found that this had a warming sensation on the skin but then it went after a two weeks of using it.  It hasn't broken me out though. It is aimed towards dry or dehydrated skin and while it didn't leave my face feeling tight afterwards I did need to follow up with something moisturising. However It didn't leave a film afterwards which was good.  It doesn't have any artificial perfumes or colour which I appreciate and it's one of the reasons why I choose Simple products, but this micellar water has an odd smell-like earth and moss mixed with something chemical. However you can't really smell it once it's on your face and has dried down.

I feel that this is an 'ok' or average micellar water, it doesn't leave a film, irritate or break me out but it also doesn't give you a squeaky clean feeling and takes a lot of effort to remove waterproof eye liner.
Purchase? I'm not a big fan of micellar waters they seem to require a lot of cotton pads so it doesn't feel very effective.  This did get my skin clean without irritating it and the price isn't bad (currently £4.94 for 200 ml) so I might buy it again if it's on offer and use a separate eye remover.

E45 
This is my go-to moisturiser. It's fragrance free and very gentle on the skin. It's not greasy but because it's a lightweight lotion I have been adding a drop of The Ordinary's Squalane or Rosehip oil for a nourishing boost. I always buy this moisturiser in a tube because I feel that they're more hygienic than the tubs.
Repurchase? Yes.

Clinique Moisture Surge Extended Thirst Relief 
I tried this once in the winter and found that is wasn't moisturising enough. I then used this in the summer and found it moisturised well. It is gel like rather than a cream which I not sure I liked but the lightweight formula makes it a good to use in the summer for those with oily-normal skin. It contains lady's thistle extract, birch bark extract, green tea and I was surprised to read caffeine! It has a fresh scent. This can be used as a lightweight moisturiser but is supposed to be an additional 'drink'  or 'thirst relief ' for the skin.
Purchase? Not right now. Maybe in the future. I would like to try more in Clinique's Moisture Surge range but at the moment I can't because of budget restrictions. If my skin is dehydrated next summer I may purchase this. However I just feel that buying a hydrating serum might be a better way of adding moisture to the skin.

L'oreal Smooth Sugars Nourish Scrub for face and lips 
This is a manual face scrub rather than an acid exfoliator. It contains grains of fine sugar which you apply to dry skin. Then you add water and rub the scrub in circles until the sugar dissolves. It is a very gentle scrub with cocoa seed butter to soothe dryness and the lipids in the coconut oil protects the skin barrier. The sugar grains are fine, they don't feel scratchy on the skin and there are lots of them which makes it much more effective than the Elemis Gentle Rose Exfoilator which did not have enough jojoba beads to actually exfoliate the skin. It smells of cocoa butter but it contains so much more than that, with apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil and rosemary extract. L'oreal promises instant and long lasting, visible results. Immediately after use and several days later my skin felt soft and smooth.
Purchase? Yes!

Clinique Moisture Surge Tinted Moisturiser SPF15 in 03 Medium Sample 
I was surprised at how much coverage this gives- I'd say has the coverage of a light foundation. The colour match was pretty good though it was slightly pink/orange toned for me (I am more yellow toned) but it didn't matter because it can be applied in a sheer layer across the skin. It didn't irritate my sensitive skin and I liked the addition of an SPF and the fact it's oil free. (For reference I am MAC NC15/Bobbi Brown Warm Sand/Nars Ceylan.)
Purchase? Maybe. I used to buy Clinique's foundations before I realised that they were too orange toned for my yellow toned skin. If I could get a shade that had more of a yellow tone I'd buy it. However as it stands they only have four shades.

Simple radiance cream
The radiance in this cream is gold glitter. You may not want to wear this to work as the glitter is very noticeable. I only had a sample and I didn't have enough to use under foundation to see if that way of applying it would give a subtle radiance instead. If you wear contact lenses be careful about washing all the gold glitter off before putting your lenses in.
Purhase? Probably not.

No 7 Eye Makeup Remover
This is a dual phrase makeup remover where you shake the oil and rest of the liquid together. It's ophthalmology tested and does't sting my eyes as some makeup removers can. It removes waterproof mascara and eye liner without any trouble. I often get this when Boots give vouchers for no 7 skincare for around £3.
Repurchase? Yes

Too Faced Shadow Insurance Eye Primer in Candlelight (Not pictured) 
I often worry when trying a new eye primer that it will really irritate my sensitive skin, but thankfully my skin gets on with Too Faced Shadow Insurance original formula and the candlelight version. Candlelight is a champagne tinted eye primer. I often wear gold/ champagne eye shadows as they brighten up the eyes and this acts like a primer and base eye shadow rolled into one. Initially I really liked this but then I began to feel that the gold looked too bright and brassy and not as soft and subtle as I would have liked.
Repurchase? Yes but in the original formula.


Body Shop Body Butters

Mango
This was the first body butter I tried and I'd say it is the best. It smells gorgeous and more importantly it mositurises incredibly well even if I skip a day applying it my skin still feels mositurised. I'd describe the consistency as being more like a lotion than a cream.

Olive 
Although organic olive oil is the third ingredient this body butter it doesn't smell of olives. To me it smells of that Boots Natural Collection Cucumber spray I mentioned above. It smells very fresh. This is aimed at those with very dry skin but I found the mango more mositurising. The consistency is thicker than the mango being more like cream/mousse hybrid. It did leave my skin soft and I loved the smell.

Strawberry
I loved the smell of this in the shop, but I actually found the strawberry scent to be really fake and cheap despite having strawberry seed oil in the ingredients. So it went in my drawer for a few months before I decided to use it again. This time around the smell didn't bother me as much. The consistency is like a mousse. It's also aimed at those with dry skin and while it made my skin soft I prefer the mango and olive body butter.

Coconut
This body butter smells very tropical but can sometimes be a bit too sweet. It moisturised my skin really well.

Repurchase? Yes to the Mango, Olive and Coconut. No for the strawberry body butter.

Aveeno Daily Body Yogurt 
This is lighter than The Body Shop body butters but very creamy and moisturising. Although it doesn't state on the sachet I think this is the vanilla and oats version. I like the scent despite not being a big vanilla fan.
Purchase? Yes.

Salcura Bioskin
Salcura Bioskin is used to treat skin allergies such as eczema. The ingredients are 99% natural and smells of essential oils.  The leaflet that came with these samples had amazing before and after photos. However it did little to soothe, moisturise or improve my skin during my eczema break outs.
Purchase? No.

Head and Shoulders Anti Dandruff Shampoo Smooth & Silky
It's always good to have an anti dandruff shampoo in the bathroom cabinet and this has such a gorgeous fresh smell. I am looking for a new shampoo without MCI and MI preservatives but unfortunately this has both.
Purchase: Maybe. I absolutely love the smell but having sensitive skin and eczema I should really avoid these preservatives.

Pantene Pro V Smooth and Sleek Shampoo
I usually use Pantene Pro V Classic shampoo but I bought this smaller sized bottle for a weekend away. I noticed that I needed less of the Smooth and Sleek shampoo to lather up and the scent is very sweet. However the Classic shampoo is better at keeping oily roots at bay.
Repurchase? Maybe if I couldn't find the Pantene pro V Classic Shampoo.

Palmers Shampoo (not pictured.) 
The coconut in this shampoo will make you smell like a Bounty chocolate bar. However it didn't control my oily hair because I had to wash it again 24 hours later. If you don't have oily hair then you may like this.
Purchase: No.

Givenchy Very Irresistible Perfume EDT
Usually I don't like sweet, floral perfumes but this one is actually really nice. It's quite modern so it's not in the 'smells like a grandma' category of perfume. The top notes are cassia, lemon verbena and anise. The middle notes are floral with rose, peony and magnolia and the end note is taif rose. To me all I can smell are the florals, mainly rose. I can't smell the lemon and I actually hate anything that smells (and tastes) like anise (such as aniseed, licorice and fennel) but it doesn't ruin the perfume for me. I guess it counterbalances the floral ingredients so they don't smell too sweet. It's a modern and feminine perfume but not really me. I prefer fruity and oceanic perfumes.
Purchase: If someone gave me a bottle I'd happily use it but I wouldn't rush out to buy it.

7 Beauty Myths Debunked

Updated May 2020

1. Alcohol is such a common ingredient so it can't be that bad. False! There are some good alcohols like stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol which are great for the skin, particularly dry skin because they are emollient (moisturising.) These alcohols are also used as a thickener to improve the texture of a product and to keep the ingredients stable. 

However it is denatured alcohol otherwise known as SD alcohol, isopropyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol which is a problematic ingredient, especially if it's listed in top three on an ingredient list because that means there's a large amount of it in the product. Denatured alcohol is used in cosmetics for a quick-drying feel or to immediately degrease skin for a matte finish while feeling weightless on skin. While it sounds like a hero ingredient for oily skin types looking for ways to control oil, denatured alcohol can actually cause enlarged pores and bumps and dry out the skin because it's too harsh. It can strip the skin of essential lipids, proteins and fats which maintain the skin barrier resulting in a weak skin barrier that's prone to inflammation and irritation.  It can also create even more oiliness because the immediate de-greasing effect is eventually counteracted, leaving your skin looking even more shiny. It's also been said that alcohol helps other ingredients such as retinol and Vitamin C absorb into the skin more efficiently. While it does enhance absorption of ingredients, the alcohol also destroys the skin barrier and it's not worth the negative effect it has on the skin.

2. Mineral Oil is bad for the skin- Not always! If you have acne prone skin you may want to  avoid it but it's good for dry or sensitive skin types*

Mineral oil is a transparent, odorless oil derived from petroleum. It’s then purified to become cosmetic grade mineral oil. Mineral oils are used in cosmetic products for it's moisturising properties.  Mineral oil contain large molecules making it difficult to penetrated the layers of skin and instead will sit on top of the skin. This enables it to trap moisture and prevent it from leaving your body, so that the skin feels more moisturised and less dry. This protective layer on the skin creates a barrier against environment stressors such as wind and pollution. Some people do use products that contains mineral oil to form an 'occulsive barrier' that seals all their nightime products underneath while they sleep.

Another reason why mineral oil is al used in cosmetics is because of the low likelihood of causing a skin reaction (making it a good choice for sensitive skin) and the fact that it doesn't spoil in hot, humid climates. It’s completely safe, soothing and non-sensitising. Mineral oil is actually classed as as low on the comedogenic scale (0-2) which means that by itself it's not pore clogging. However mineral oil can trap other ingredients onto the top layer of the epidermis which can lead to clogged pores if that ingredient is known to clog pores. Heavier products such as face balms and ointment tend to be heavy and are more occulsive  which may make some acne and rosea prone skin worse. In this case choose lighter formulas or perhaps avoid using this ingredient.

Conclusion- It is safe to use. It's good for dry skin but may aggrate acne prone skin or those with rosea espeically if it's a balm testure. It's best when used by itself eg vaseline or in a product that contains other ingredients that are low on the comedogenic scale. 

Photo by Becky Fantham on Unsplash

3. The Natural is better fallacy. Natural Skin and body care products are often claimed to be better for you as they don't contain 'chemicals.' However natural does not equal better. Arsenic is a natural chemical but it's posionous and fatal to us even if it's just rubbed onto the skin. It's better to look at the ingredients lists for common irritants like essential oils particularly lavender.  Mint essential oils can also be irritating if you have sensitive or acne prone skin so avoid using peppermint, eucalyptus and spearmint. Citrus essential oils are also irritants, they include lemon, orange, bergamot and lemongrass. 

4. Do not assume that expensive products will work better. Yes high end brands will have more money to invest in the latest technology and invest in quality ingredients but it is possible to find something that works and doesn't cost the earth. For example award winning brand The Ordinary was a game changer by making skincare products such as oils, AHAs and BHA's at affordable prices. Skincare brand Garden of Wisdom and The Inky List rival The Ordinary with their affordable pricing, although I haven't tried any of  their products yet I've read lots of good reviews. I love Simple skincare because they cater to my sensitive skin, their products are often fragrance free and they can be found in any drugstore. I also like Aveeno because I've never reacted to their products and they're fairly gentle on the skin. In fact in the Eve Lom cleansing Balm is the main ingredient is mineral oil which is quite inexpensive and yet the product retails at £55.

5. Oily Skin does not need moisturising and you shouldn't use oil on oily skin -Wrong!

Your skin still needs hydration whatever the type. With oily skin you will find that the oil lubricates the skin but does not provide moisture. (This is why dehydrated skin and dry skin also get mixed up. Dehydrated skin lacks water not oil. Dry skin types just lacks oil.) A common mistake is to avoid oils and just use cleansers that end up removing the natural oil (sebum) in the skin. Unfortunately this will just prompt the skin to overcompensate for this dryness and produce more oil! The Oil Cleansing Method is based on the idea that like disolves like-  meaning that oil is able to dissolve and remove excess oil/sebum, clear out clogged pores and remove waterproof makeup and dead skin. Oil cleansing can help regulate oil production by balancing the skin and maintaing hydration. For oily skin types jojoba oil is supposed to be good balancing oils and reducing acne.

6.  The SPF in my foundation is all I need- Wrong! While it's great that some foundations have SPF, often they're too low to adequately protect your skin against the sun (e.g. SPF15, SPF20.) While foundations with higher SPF of 30 and above are better they still need to be liberally applied on the face but we don't tend to apply foundation this way so we apply too little.

So what should you do instead? Either apply sunscreen underneath your foundation or try layering products with SPF in them. Layering products means that the layer will become thick enough to protect your face from the sun. To layer products, one of them must be at least SPF30 and applied liberally all over the face. Choose products for your skin type and layer them by texture. For example if you have oily skin, a lightweight, matte finish moisturiser with SPF 30 can be generously applied first, then a primer with sunscreen and finally a liquid or powder foundation with sunscreen. If you want to add an eye cream with SPF, apply it after your SPF moisturiser and then put on makeup.

Note: Beware of SPF maths! Applying an moisturiser with SPF 30, and then a primer with SPF 15, and then a foundation with SPF 25 doesn’t add up to SPF 70 but it does give more sun protection which is the most important thing.


7. The white specks under your nails means you have a calcium deficiency-Wrong!

Credit Almay

These white blotches are called Leukonychia punctata. They are caused by damage to the base of the nail also known as the matrix. Nails consist of cells containing large amount of sturdy protein called keratin. These cells grow outwards to form fingernails and toenails. Any damage to the matrix will stop any newly formed keratin filled cells from bonding together properly. This resuts in a small white blotch  at the bottom of the nail. The blotch moves upwards as it begins to grow. The damage or trauma to the nail can be from excessive tapping, chewing nails, smacking a table, even a vigorious manicure or slamming a finger in the door. We don't tend to make the connection as to what caused the white blotch because our nails take so long to grow. It can take up to 6 weeks for the damage in the matrix to grow and manifest itself as a white spot in the nail. By then we've forgotton about the time we smacked the table in frustration or tapped our fingers in impatience or nervously chewed our nails at an interview or had a vigorius manicure. These blotches are like nail bruises. Simple white blotches on the nails aren't harmful and they will grow out but it can take up to 8 months. However if the nail is completely white it could be sign of someting serious such as liver cirrhosis, kidney failure or heart disease, so it's best to go and see a doctor.

Refrences
2. *Brydie Dermatologists settle the mineral oil debate. / Paula's Choice Ingredients Dictory /Dr Dray The Truth about mineral oil in skincare
5.Healthline Oil Cleansing Method How it Works Healthline Jojoba Oil & Acne Does it Work? / Bustle Beauty Myths we need to leave behind. 
7. The Naked Scientist Myth: why we get white spots on our nails / Wikipedia Leukonychia/ The Sun Do you have white marks on your nails?

Disappointing Beauty Products #4

Simple Clear Skin Oil Balancing Facial Scrub (Supermarkets/Superdrug/Boots £3.99 for 75ml)
Simple claim that this " Oil Balancing Facial Scrub is a perfect blend of active ingredients and exfoliating goodness to remove dead skin cells, dirt and impurities. Clinically proven to reduce blackheads and blemishes in just 7 days. "
I used this as instructed but did not see any change in my skin or amount of blackheads. After 3 weeks I didn't see any changes and I felt that this was as ineffective as water. I was disappointed as I love this brand and the oil balancing ranged seemed perfect as it's for sensitive and oily skin. Unfortunately this didn't work for me.

The Body Shop Lip Butter in Honey Mania (The Body Shop £4 for 10ml/9g)
This does soften lips during the day but is not very moisturising. It feels similar to Vaseline in the fact that it acts as a barrier but doesn't feel soothing at all on chapped lips. The smell is very sweet but not off-putting. I'm currently using this to soften my elbows and around my fingernails and cuticles instead.

 Dr Organic Royal Jelly Lip Serum (£3.10 for 10ml Holland and Barratts)
The packaging states this is a  'intensely regenerating and revitalising' that 'instantly moisturises and restores the condition of the lips.'  I've never tried a lip serum before but  from this description I imagined it would be an intense moisturiser, but I this feels like a very light version of a lip balm.  I loved the smell fruity mango and ginseng and the fact it's organic with lovely ingredients such as organic royal jelly, Shea better, olive oil, African coffee tree oil and mango butter. It's also free from parabens, SLS, harsh preservatives and artificial colours. As far as the packaging goes I loved the tube it's more hygienic, although  stiff at first but then it gets easier to squeeze. However I was really disappointed, on the lips it made my lips feel dehydrated as if I've just eaten salt and vinegar crisps that have made my lips dry and uncomfortable from the salt. It also tingles a little this might be the ginseng or the bioactive effect it claims to have? Overall I would avoid this one.

No 7 Lash Adapt Mascara in Deepest Black (Boots £12.95 for 7ml)
I'm not sure if this is being discontinued or not. I loved this at first, it lengthens, adds volume holds a curl and suitable for sensitive eyes. The wand has a soft bristle brush. No 7 claim that this is a buildable mascara that can be layered without up to 6 times for more volume, which is does with minimal clumping.
The shiny silver packaging is gorgeous, and makes it look more expensive than it actually is.

The problem came when I wore it for my birthday and ended up with panda eyes when I got off the dance floor which ruined my photos, I was really annoyed. This is good enough for everyday use as long as you stay off the dance floor and avoid the gym and humid weather. For the price there are probably better ones out there

.No 7 Extreme length Mascara in Black (Boots mini sized. Full sized £12.50 for 7ml)

This mascara has a plastic bristled brush which No. 7 claim is unique because of it's flexible plastic bristles, it doesn't look different but does help to separate lashes, reducing clumping. No 7 also say that the brush helps to catch the small lashes in the corner but I think having bristles on the tip/head of the brush would be more effective. This mascara doesn't really have much of an impact, it adds a little length but in no way is it extreme. It doesn't give any volume to the lashes either. I would say this suits those who like lashes defined but are after a soft, natural look. This is also hypo-allergenic so suitable for sensitive eyes and contact lens wearers. However I wouldn't buy again because there are cheaper mascaras out there that have more impact than this.