This season's biggest surprise has been bright, neon colours usually reserved for the spring/summer seasons. Eyes were neon yellow, orange and both pink and blue at Christian Siriano. Bold eye liners in red, yellow, purple, green and blue circled the eyes as well as traditional black liner drawn in tiny winged flicks at Pucci to a bolder graphic eye at Marras. In short, black or rainbow coloured eye liner is a must have for your make up bag!
Black smoky eyes made an appearance at Tom Ford and La Petite Robe. But smoky eyes didn't just come in black but in jewel toned purple at Carolina Herrera, green at Armani and even bronze at Etro. Metallic shades were made very wearable by using silver as inner eye highlight at Tommy Hilfiger, a silver liner on bare eyelids at Franchi and gold eye shadow at Huelle. Gold leaf was added to the inner and outer corners of heavily kohl eyes at Akin and at Laroche the contrast of gold swipes across the eyes and lips against the models dark skin was very striking. However the glitter face mask at Giambatistta Valli was an absolute show stopper. I think you can probably get away with glitter on the forehead and hair at a party or a festival. Although far more wearable is the beautiful, feminine lilac and iridescent white eye makeup at Oscar De La Renta and the glitter smokey eye at Carmen Marc Valvo.
On the other end of the spectrum was the natural look. Full brows aren't going anywhere but they are more natural looking than the instagram brow. They go with the subtle 'boyish blush' and glowing skin trends.
Finally red lips never go out of style and as well as the usual dark vampy red lips, this season it's also all about cherry lips- a bright blue based red.
1. Bright Eyes
At
Ferragamo makeup artists created neon eyes using
MAC Cosmetics Chromaline gel in Genuine Orange £17 and
Chromacake Pigment £22.50. Colour block make up at
Christian Siriano was inspired by Grace Jones. He used products from his collaboration with E.L.F. His matte pink liquid lipstick Electric Fuchsia was actually used on models eyelids while the turquoise and navy eye shadows from his eye shadow palette Bold Bouquet a collaboration with E.L.F was applied on the lower lash line. At
Noon eyes were neon yellow.
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2. Bright Liner
Head make up artist Peter Philips at
Dior decided to apply eye liner that matched the colour of the sunglasses worn by each model.
He used
Diorshow On Stage colourful felt tip liners in Matte Red and
Matte Rusty. At Eudon Choi models eyes were circled in yellow or red liner using
MAC Cosmetics Chromaline in Primary Yellow or Basic Red £17. To make this trend more wearable just focus on the lash line for a pop of colour. The colourful superhero mask worn at
Sies Marjan was created by
MAC Cosmetics Chromaline and
Chromacakes in four different combinations: red and purple, purple and blue, teal and blue and orange and green. The rest of the face was left make up free so that the focus was on the eyes.
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3. Winged Liner
Pucci wanted models to look like ' baby Marilyn Monroes.' The look was created with
MAC's Brushstroke Liner in Brushblack £18.50 drawn only along a third of the upper lash line. This was paired with
MAC Cosmetics Haute & Naughty Lash Mascara £20 and balanced by a neutral lipstick -
MAC Cosmetics Cremesheen in Pure Zen, £17.50 and
Clear Gloss £15.50, for added shine. At
Sonia Rykiel models eyes were heavily lined while girls at
No. 21 wore double winged liner.
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4. Graphic eyes
Models at
Jeremy Scott wore one of the most innovative looks of the season using plastic wire and
MAC Cosmetics acrylic paint to achieve 3D flap eyeliner wings. The 3D blue wings below were created using
Hi-Def Cyan, the pink wings with
Process Magenta and yellow wings used with
Primary Yellow acrylic paint. Lips were given a natural finish using the MAC X Jeremy Scott's Lip X 9 Future Emotions Palette $21. At
Marras a thick bold graphic eye was softened and brightened with a pink magenta shade, while
Zero +Maria Cornejo went for a messy graphic eye.
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5. Smokey eyes
For a messy, smoky eye
Tom Ford used
eye kohl in Intense Onyx £27 and added
Tom Ford eye gloss £32.
Marc Jacobs went for a 80's smoky eye extending the flick towards the side of the face. Make up artist Dianne Kendall used jewel toned eye shadows, liquid and gel liners that matched what each model was wearing. She used
Marc Jacobs Eye-Conic Eye shadow palettes £32 and
Marc Jacobs Shamless Youthful Look 24 Hour Foundation £32
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Other alternatives to the traditional black and silver smoky eye appeared at
Caroline Herrera. Head makeup artist Dianne Kendal created a blue and purple 'midnight smoky.' For the eyes she used
MAC Cosmetic pigment in Naval Blue and
Platinum (both £16.50.)
Haute and Naughty Lash Mascara £20 completed the look. Models at
Etro had a bronze smoky eye while at
Armani, shimmery shades of green, black and silver formed a camouflage smoky eye look.
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6. Metallic Make Up
At
Tommy Hilfiger silver eye shadow 'similar to the chrome of a car' was used to highlight the inner corners of the eye for a glowy, wide awake look. To finish the look lashes were coated in
Maybelline Total Temptations Mascara £8.99. Another silver, minimalist look was spotted at
Franchi where silver eye liner was applied to bare eye lids. At Delponzo silver
Nars Eye Paint in Insterstellar £18.50 was applied in a slap dash fashion across the eyes. Skin was deliberately matte by using
Nars Soft Matte Complete Concealer (£24) and
Nars Soft Velvet Loose Powder £28 to highlight the metallic shadow. At
Lutz Huelle models wore gold eye shadow.
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For a statement look, gold leaf was placed at the corners of kohl rimmed eyes at
Akin while
Laroche took the look further with gold on the lips which looked stunning against dark skin.
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7. Glitter
Glitter doesn't have to be brash and obvious, sometimes a little does go a long way. The makeup at
Oscar De La Renta was very feminine and delicate. They applied the lavendar sparkle shade 'Ice Lolly' from
MAC Cosmetics Trend Forecast The Fall 18 Cream Eye Palette U.S $40.Then
MAC Cosmetics Grand Illusion Glossy Liquid Lip Color in Pink Trip £18.50 was dabbed onto the centre of the lid and blended. Finally
MAC Cosmetics Iridescent White glitter was also patted onto the centre of the lids and a little under the lower lashes. Using the Trend Forecast Fall 18 palette the shade 'Maybe I will' a deep rose colour was used across the cheeks. At
Alice McCall gold glitter was concentrated in the inner eye taking it up to the brow bone while at
Genny silver glitter was applied to outer lids and extended upwards towards
the brow. At
Valvo models sported a gorgeous glittery smoky eye.
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However
Giambatista Valli stole the show with models' faces completely covered in glitter- like a mask. Make up artist Val Garland used a
MAC Cosmetics 184S duo fibre fan brush £21 to blend
MAC Cosmetics Mixing Medium Shine £16.50, with MAC's
pink loose glitter and
iridescent white both £16.50.
Since the clothing collection at
Preen was inspired by Korean female divers searching for pearls, model's skin was kept dewy as if they'd just been in the water. To achieve this dewy look
MAC Cosmetics Prep + Prime Fix, £19 and
Studio Moisture Cream, £25 were used. Make up artists mixed
MAC Cosmetics Mixing Medium Shine, with
MAC Cosmetics Iridescent white glitter (although it looks gold in the photos) both £16.50. Then the mixture was blown onto onto models forehead and hairline.
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8. Gems and Crystals
When I first saw the eye make up at
Kate Spade I thought the gems were drops of water! They are actually
Swarovski Shimmer Effect Hotfix Crystals £4.39 which were glued on using eyelash glue and tweezers. The rest of the face were kept relatively bare, skin was prepped with
MAC Studio Moisture Cream £25 and then
MAC Studio Finish Concealer £12.50 where needed. Thick groomed brows accompanied the look. At
Prada legendary make up artist Pat Mcgrath used her
Subversive La Vie en Rose Palette (£43) to create an edgy and colourful winged eye liner studded with Swarovski crystals. While at
Zinko, gems replaced eye liner for a striking effect.
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9. Glowing skin
At
Temperley Charlotte Tilbury debuted her
Hollywood Flawless Filter backstage to achieve a "gorgeous, glossy, all-over, superstar-lit glow." For the eye makeup
Charlotte Tilbury Eyes To Mesmerise in Bette and
Star Gold £22, was applied. Then
Hollywood Beauty Light Wand, £29 was added for glow and
Charlotte Tilbury Hot Lips in Tell Laura on the lips. To accompany
Emilia Wickstead's 'love story' clothing collection, make up artists concentrated on giving models 'a youthful, glowing blush you get when falling in love.' Models were given facials by Caroline Hirons for a radiant finish followed by
Zelens blush in Apricot an illuminating powder designed to give a lit from within glow.
Zelens lip treatment was finally applied on the lips.
Isabel Marant also went with a natural glow using brush of bronzer to define the cheekbones and a natural lipstick that subtlety gave each models skin tone a boost.
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10. Brows
At
Arfen models' brows were brushed up and thickened with
Nars' Brow Perfector £18.50, and
Nars Oural Brow Gel £18.50. To define the eyes, makeup artists used
Nars Powermatte Lip Pigment in Somebody To Love to add a natural looking redness around the eyes. For full brows at
Toga, makeup artists used the same Nars brow products as above. Full brows also made an appearance at the
Brock Collection accompanied
with a neutral eye shadow and lip.
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11. Blush
Lead makeup artist Lyndsey Alexander for
Mary Katranzou wanted her models to 'look like young boys on a cold day.' In other words a minimal, natural, just come in from the col,d pink blush. She used a fan brush to apply
MAC Cosmetics Mineralize Blush in Bubbles Please £23 but much lower on the cheeks rather than on the apples of the cheeks.
Over at
House of Holland head makeup artist Zoe Taylor decided that a natural, wind flushed cheek would complement the inspiration behind the latest collection of 'urban hiking.' She used Lord and Berry Absolute Intensity lipstick in Sweetheart for a caramel blush on the apples of the cheeks and a dot of
Lord and Berry Lipstick in Advant Guard terracotta high in the centre of the cheeks.
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12. Red Lips - Cherry Red
Red lipstick never goes out of fashion. The colour this season was cherry red, a blue toned red shade. At
Brandon Maxwell lead make up artist Tom Pecheux used
MAC Cosmetics Lip pencil in Cherry. He then took an eye liner brush to apply
MAC Cosmetics Retro Matte Lipcolour In Feels so Grand and added a highlighter to the cupids bow. Then for a twist he added
MAC Cosmetics Glitter in Gold to the top lip line but stopping before the out thirds.
Cherry red lips was also seen at
No. 21 and at
Shoji the lipstick was sheer and glossier.
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13. Dark Berry Reds
At an Autumn/Winter fashion show expect to see dark berry lips. At
Cushnie Et Ochs models wore a dark berry lipstick using
Maybelline Superstay Matte Ink Lip Colour in Voyager £9.99 topped up with
Maybelline Lip Python 5 Passionate £9.99.
Rochas went for a stained just eaten berriers look while at
Chocheng lips were dark and glossy.
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